TIKI 26 - ROTTEN TILLER. WHAT WOULD YOU DO IN THIS CASE?

[Chris Boxer]

Hi everyone, my Tiki 26 has a cracked, rotten tiller.  I've reinforced it temporarily, to get me home (see photos).  

I guess water got in through the bolt-hole.  (I loosened the bolt for the photos; it's usually tighter).

I don't have the original plans.  I'm open to ideas on the best way forward.  If you think rebuilding a completely-new tiller  is the best route, does anyone have the relevant drawing that they could scan for me?

What type of wood is recommended?

Alternatively, but not as good, maybe just tape and glass would be strong enough? 

Thanks in advance for any tips or comments.  

[wakataitea]

way do you need the plans??? you still have the original part and take all the measurements from it. 

not sure how handy you are but i would add a new piece of wood and go ahead.  you should not forget, that james wharram is checking this page sometimes too. he will not be happy if he figures out that we copy his plans and pass them around.... he can not do much about it. it just will piss him of... i can understand this... if you buy a wharram boat, does not mean, that you can copy and use plans for your design on your own... if i buy plans, i agree to the term that i use them only to build this boat and not others. i agree, not to make any copies. for sure not to send them around the world.... i find it really stupid from people here to ask for plans... way they don't contact james wharram direct. 

mach dir mal nicht ins hemd. a bisschen epoxy und die sache ist read to go again...

 gruss hans

[Chris Boxer]

Yeah, well, fair winds to you, Hans.  Your response says a lot more about you than it does about the content of my post.  What a pity - and how revealing -  that, after all your experience and voyaging success over the years, for which I have the highest respect and admiration, this is the best you can do.  

This site is called "Wharram Builders and Friends".  "Builders" and "friends" tend to make constructive comments. 

Just to clarify for other people who may want to respond, in a helpful way:

As I said in my post (which clearly Hans either didn't read, or didn't understand - or both), I'm just after simple advice because I am quite new to epoxy work and tiller repair.  The "drawing" that I alluded to in my question could, of course, be drawn by hand, to illustrate your own experience.

I certainly feel no need to justify myself to Hans regarding whatever he thinks JW might potentially think about this site.   Way bother, sorry, Why bother?

I'm just asking for constructive comments from helpful, positive people. Comments about:

the type of wood / how far back aft to reinforce the tiller / any tips on epoxying tillers like these / can I improve the nut-and-bolt connection?

[kim whitmyre]

Chris, is it actually rotten or did it just split along the grain? If just split along the grain, get some West System 610 and inject it completely into the split. Don't clamp it too hard or you will squeeze the epoxy out!

If it is rotten, cut the tiller back enough to do a simple splice, make the new working end and epoxy it on. At the splice area, wrap 2 pieces of 2" fiberglass wet with West System 205 (2-part epoxy) around several times. All the epoxy/glass work areas must have the paint removed down to the wood. Repaint, and go sailing...

Enlarge the bolt hole so you can epoxy in a piece of plastic pipe; this will help prevent water intrusion. You'll need a new bolt.

[Chris Boxer]

Perfect, thanks Kim.  That's really helpful.  

Just one further clarification: when you "splice", should you cut back the old wood diagonally, or straight across, at 90 degrees?

[kim whitmyre]

Simple splice:

[Chris Boxer]

Ah! Yes, that makes sense... Great, thanks Kim.  

[wakataitea]

hallo cris,

 that's right...  i misunderstood then questions about the Plans /drawing.... sorry about this but often people ask for plans etc... so, i got rid of my pressure about this on the wrong guy... sorry for this but it is still a problem here in the forum...

kim gave you a good advice. everything said in many words. i made the same succession in a short form... 

now i see that you have not clue about this kind of stuff... you should have make this more clear... and my answer would have been different.

so, sorry again for my rough way. as a german, my english sounds even more rough.

 good luck

[Chris Boxer]

Thanks, Hans.  I appreciate your comment.  

[kim whitmyre]

Chris, over at http://www.westsystem.com/ss/ , there are lots of good how-to articles for building or repairing using epoxies. Recommended.

[Galway Bay]

Chris I don't see any rot in the photo more just a split along the grain . Glue and wrap in glass cloth is good advice - and wrap the other one too to be safe.

Wharram used to recommend through bolting laminated tillers against splitting. A wrap of glass cloth every so often does the same job probably better and simpler.

[Galway Bay]

Postscript - Chris I am wondering why this split. Is the cross bar free to the limit of it's travel or does it "bind" ie. come up hard against the tiller ? This will put unfair pressure on the joint. If so the bolt hole may be slightly out of place, or the crossbar too deep. If it is free then no problem. This is only from general principles , I do not sail a Tiki myself.

If indeed it is binding then perhaps a Tiki sailor can advise you.

[Penn D]

HI Chris, I would probably open the split up more, even break it right off if the direction allows then I could get a good look in there clean it up/cut it back a little then fill with epoxy glue. The tape it like suggested above will guarantee it. While your at it def do both sides. Clean all the paint back on your other tiller in the same place and check to see if any cracks are appearing.Thinking about it they look like they could do with a coat of paint so it would be worth while to strip them both back to bare wood to make sure there are no problems developing elsewhere, lay some tape at the stress points seal and paint again. Do that and your good to go for a good long while.

Penn