webbing T30 - How tight

[Darrell Priest]

Hello all - Just bought Tiki 30 and webbing belts don't seem very tight. Any ideas or explanations on "how tight " they should be.

Thanks - Darrell

[Greg Russell]

I don't know what type of netting you are using. On one of my past boats I used black fish netting, in the morning with a heavy dew it would sag way down but in the afternoon with the sun out it would pull real tight. On my pahi 31 I use trampoline material and it always seem to stay tight. I liked the netting because I could see the animals under the boat better.

[kim whitmyre]

Tight enough to keep the beams from moving, not tight enough to rip the blocks off the deck! Do you have any pictures of the beam lashing in place? Are you using the "seat-belt" style closures, or something else?

[Ann and Neville Clement]

Which webbing are we talking about.  Webbing for netting?  Webbing for beam lashing?

We use fish net type black material for netting and it came from a sports company and looks brand new after 10 years.  Had to replace white nylong light rope that is used to tension and position and secure it.  That white nylon just degrades in the sunshine.  But black stand up fine.

 

I think the seat belt type of beam fastening is no longer recommended - any body know for sure?  I thought they went over to rope fastenings.  Something about the metal degrading in seat belt type fastening.  Surely somebody knows for sure.  In any case, rope really is fine and easy to do.

 

 

[Ralf]

I believe this post is not about trampoline material but crossbeam attachment. 50mm wide polyester webbing is still the recommendation for beam attachment on the T30.  It is the way it is drawn in the plans and no update has been sent out to builders. The rope lashing is considered an alternative lashing for the T30.  The buckles are not car seat belt type but so called over-center-buckles which tighten the belt as you close them. One has to decide whether one wants to trust those over center buckles, though. I have seen pictures where builders came up with other methods of attaching webbing to the blocks like this one www.themultihull.com/wharram2/lc8.htm

I remember that this builder reported good results with this method being easy to adjust and reliable.

Ralf

P.S. Funny thing: as I am writing this post, the trampoline material which I ordered from sailrite (USA) is arriving.

[Budget Boater]

 

As tight as you can get them.

 

I used 2" ratcheting cargo straps available at Home Depot for $14. These are used on 18-wheelers to secure the cargo on the flatbed trailers. I removed the hooks and attached the straps and tightened them until I could not get another "click" of the ratchet. Then I cut off the excess strap and stored it in the hull. Every two years, cut off the straps and buy new (if the ratchet has rusted up, which is likely), or just use the old excess strap that you stored and redo them.

 

Of course, you can always just pay once and get some stainless steel ratchets with a lifetime guarantee.

[Darrell Priest]

Hello all - Should have been more explicit.  The job is web lashing beams to hull and IS the T30 of Lindsays that Ralf has linked to. Some of these webbing straps must be 7 years old and seem to still be in good order. With the stainless tensioner that Lindsay set up it is very secure and easy to tension, however when I put a small spanner (100mm) on them I could very easily tighten the nuts with 1 finger force. Should I be tightening the nuts up till very firm or should we be looking at the webbing itself or wait till its in the water and just see what sort of movement there is and how it seems to behave.

Thanks for your info - Darrell

[Budget Boater]

The webbing should be "bar tight" and not be deflected with heavy finger or hand force.

[Ralf]

Darell, interesting that you own this particular boat. I would tighten the nuts until the web is so tight that you cannot deflect it by hand as Budget Boater says, but I am a novice in this question, still building my T30. I would also use a second nut on each bolt. Once the first nut is as tight as you want it, put a second nut on and turn them both against each other. This will stop the first nut from getting loose by vibration.

I have been interested in Lindsay`s tensioning set-up since I started building. Could you give me the diameter of the stainless steel rod and the bolts he used for his system? I am considering to use it on my boat.

Ralf

[Darrell Priest]

Thanks all for the info

Ralf-Unfortunately we're about 1800 K's from the boat at the minute but at a guess the tube is about 1/2"-13mm -5/8-15mm and the bolts, well they definitely have 13mm nuts so so they're probably 6-7mm.

Will let you know when we're a bit closer - Darrell

[Marty Peters]

On our tiki 30 Nok Talay we had rope lashings and they were extremely tight. I never noticed any movement of the beams relative to the hulls more than a millimetre or so. My opinion is no matter what system you use is to get them as tight as possible.

[boatsmith]

I also think that tighter is better. Our Tiki 30 was set up with the lashings and the Tiki8ms are also lashed. We get them forever more tight and they will sometimes creak a little but you can't see them move. If you put your hand spanning the beam and the hull you can feel movement.

 

 

[Ralf]

Darrell, 13 mm nuts means it is 8mm bolts, if everything is metric. Are you saying that Lindsay put it up with tubes (stainless stell pipe) not massive stainless Steel rod? I always thought it were massive rod. Ralf