TIKI 30

Comment by Duncan Clausen on July 24, 2011 at 3:30am

Hi Justin,

I added a coach roof to the fore cabin (see my photos), and thus created a more usable single bunk. I would not move the rear beam aft, but you could make a cutout in bulkhead #6 as shown as an option for bulkhead #3. This is how JWD creates an spare bunk in the T26. These bunks are to narrow to really be called double bunks though.

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Cheers Duncan

Comment by Justin Haines on July 24, 2011 at 5:17am

thanks Duncan and Tarcisio,  I did not realise the berths were .95m as the beam in the specs is around 4'2" or 1.3m so width must be lost in the v of the hull. Duncan I see you have sold your T30 and are now building a T26 it is unusual to go smaller so I would be interested in why you made that call. Regards Justin

Comment by Duncan Clausen on July 24, 2011 at 4:40pm

Hi Justin, I sold my T30 in South Africa, and now I am living in New Zealand. The decision to build a T26 was an accidental one, in that I was  able to buy an unused set of T26 plans cheap. Though all said, I have just returned from SA and had discussions with the owner of 'Inkosinati' and I might ship her to NZ and refurbish her - topsides need to be repainted etc. she has been in the water for 8 years now. I will probably still build the T26 as it will be easier to trailer. Regarding the berth width, if one raises the roof slightly one can use a thick mattress and if it is contoured to fit the hulls you can gain 50mm or so. I curve the roof line to compliment the sheer and carried the line through in to my modified fore cabin top.  Regards Duncan

Comment by boatsmith on July 24, 2011 at 5:46pm

Duncan, I like the houses you put on your Tiki 30. Very nice. It would certainly allow more space to put a head in instead of one of the forward bunks.

Comment by Duncan Clausen on July 24, 2011 at 8:14pm

Thanks David. That is exactly what I did - I put a head in the starboard fore cabin. This arrangement works really well, especially for day sails, where not all of the crew are into the 'bucket & chuck it' routine.

Comment by Rob and Beth Boase on March 12, 2012 at 12:45am

I am looking for some advice regarding lashing of the beams on the Tiki 30. We have built our boat strictly to the plans ( well almost)and are at the stage of fitting the beams and would rather lash the beams to the hullsides instead of the webbing method shown in the plans. I have tried contacting Hanneke and James for advice but have had no reply.  Is there a design to follow or do we make it up as we go until it looks right? The beam pads and hull reinforcing are constructed as per plans. Any advice from those who have attached their beams with the lashing method would be a great help.                                                                       Rob.

                                                                        

 

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Comment by Bertrand FERCOT on March 12, 2012 at 5:36pm

Hello Rob and Beth

Concerning the lashings on my Tiki30, I take this decision after  to have read a report telling a Tiki30 have broken a lashing fixation in hard sea.
As at this time I have already begun my Tiki46, I put the same system to PHA. It's evident that fixing the lashing outside, along the hull sides is stronger than to fix them over the deck.. After a few sailing in bad weather it's necessary to tighten  again the lashings  and after I don't need to tighten them. Don't forget to extend slightly the beam length if you don't yet build them.
As when I take this decision the original inside reinforcement was already made (it's not easy to make these triangular reinforcement) , I only added a piece of hard wood bolted threw the hull and the stringer and glued a piece of plywood + glass above it. In fact in viewing my blog  http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profiles/blogs/building-of-the-tiki...  it should be better to extend this piece of plywood until the deck stringer.

If you look at one of my pictures you can see the places of 5 bolts (of 6mm) in the center and one screw on each side of the lashing passages.

I put 6 turns of 8mm pre-stretched rope.

In hoping this can help you.

Bertrand

Comment by Rob and Beth Boase on March 12, 2012 at 9:42pm

Hi Bertrand,

Thanks for your advice and pictures. I think we will go with a similar system on our boat. It looks relatively easy to tension and you have tested it well, especially with the Atlantic crossing.Unfortunately our forward and main beams are completed to the length shown on the plans so a bit late to add a few inches .The aft beam still needs trimming to length so can be left slightly longer. I think we can still have the hulls the correct distance apart as the small angle that the lashings will form should'nt be a problem as long as the end caps are very secure.                                  

Many thanks

Rob. 

 

Comment by Rogerio Martin on July 3, 2012 at 2:17pm

Rob, in building book, in finishs pages, have a draw of TIKI 30 alternate lashings, like a Tiki 26, Bertrand do like Tiki 38. 

Comment by Rob and Beth Boase on July 11, 2012 at 6:34am

Hi Rogerio,

My apologies for not answering sooner but I have only just found your message tonight. Thanks for the information on the Tiki 30 lashing.  Did the alternative lashing method come with your plans or is it a separate publication? I am embarassed to say our plans were purchased in 2003 and we are still building.  I have started building lashing points similar to bertrands method but would still like to get a copy of the official Tiki 30 method and maybe combine the two.

Regards,

Rob

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