asymmetry between the hulls

[adriano meis]

Hi, after assembling my tiki 26 and after one hundred miles (more or less) I've noticed an assimetry between the hulls. It means That the right one is some inch forward and obliouvsly the otherone is some inches back. Is this normal or can this be a problem? Should I ri-assemble the boat?

 

[Geminidawn]

I wouldn't loose any sleep over it, your 100 miles sounds like a good shake down period and it may just be that your lashings have to be re-addressed. Similar to the old Norse ships, flexation in the boat is one of the strenghts of a Wharram but it's also just a part of the ongoing tuning and maintenance. Have a look at your lashings, see if any has come loose and packing blocks for wear. Un-addressed the problem may continue to worsen causing excessive wear at some points in your beams and channels and you don't want that. You have done well to spot it, treat your boat, it's lashings and rigging like a finely tuned Stradivarius and it will give you years of timeless pleasure playing with it in return.

[adriano meis]

this make me sleep better. It means there is no big problem for the assimetry and I don't have to assemble the boat again. (this would mean put the mast down) I've just to tide the lashing again and stronger?

[paul anderson]

does the design of the of the tiki lashings allow for a'' settling in''as  for instance like the georgian houses found in england to some extent.or as gemini pointed out it could lead to uneven stresses .

[Geminidawn]

You may also want to look at what type of rope you are using. I know with the Pahi you are suppose to use pre-streched polyester in some places and Nylon with a bit of give in others, not sure what the story is with the Tiki's though.

[kim whitmyre]

Lashing with rope (even modern stuff like Sta-Set) does allow the hulls and beams to "work" a bit. That's a good thing, as long as it's a bit!  Get the lashing as tight as humanly possible (this must be done with relaxed standing rigging, btw), and then get the frapping line (goes around the lashings themselves) again as tight as humanly possible. The frapping line really takes the slack out of the lashing line.

[adriano meis]

even for the tiki you are supposed to use pre streched ropes But it is what I did.

the assimetry between the hulls IS a bit: it means The  stern beam touchs the deckhouse on the right side and on the left side I can hardly put my finger between the beam and the deckhouse

 so next step is:

1 mast down

2 relax all lashing

3 put one hull forward till it is simmetryc

4 make the lashing as tight as humanly possible

 

you think  it is dangerous go on sailing this way a little bit more?

[Geminidawn]

No I wouldn't think it dangerous to sail it but it is a problem you'll have to sort out. Is your beam straight? I looked at your pictures of how you stowed your boat over the winter, how did you stow the beams? It is amazing how a little moisture and/or sunlight can warp wood. If that is not the case the it's just a matter of fine tuning your lashings.

[adriano meis]

(...)I will not sleep again....This would be much worse....I stowed the beams exactly under the boat. This mean cold and hot...it could have happened

but

 

the same situation of the beam is exactly the same on the front beam but in the opposite way (on the right side I can hardly put my finger between the beam and the deckhouse but not on the left side) So I think (hope) is just assimetry.

[Geminidawn]

Just check your beams for straightness, run a piece of string tightly down the edge of the length of the beam like you're stringing a bow, if the beams are straight no worries, if they have warped, no worries, they can be braced next time you stow them and put right.

[kim whitmyre]

Adriano, you don't have to take the mast down to tighten the beam lashing. Just slack off the shrouds/forestay until they are not pulling up on the hulls. The mast will be wobbly, but is in no danger of coming down. I've done this while Vaea is floating at my slip. Double-check that the cockpit is completely trapped by the beams, and do one beam lashing at a time. Start at the inboard aft beam lashings, then the inboard mast beam lashings, and finish up the outboard beam lashings.

[adriano meis]

why  in this order?

[kim whitmyre]

The inboard beam lashings take the most load...The shrouds are pulling up on the hulls, "trying" to rotate the hulls, thus the inboard lashings importance.