A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
hi everyone i have just read scott williams latest excellent blog and he suggests making tiki 30 beams for the tiki 26 as it is far less complicated to glass and all the structural bits are inside the beam itself.any help or suggestions would be appreciated as always.
thomas you have made an interesting point and i would have to agree with you on the idea of over engineering the beams for a weight penalty that really is not much in the greater scheme of things.p.s what exactly is a glulam?
thanks thomas,so are you suggesting to forego the whole beam as designed for a solid laminated one,or to incorporate the glulam into the existing design?
I haven't built a tiki 26 beam from scratch, but I did take the front beam off to repair a locating pocket for the deck pad for said beam. While it was off, I took it down to wood and applied fiberglass and epoxy, something that should be done as a matter of course. . .ahem. I am also a woodbutcher (carpenter/cabinetmaker, etc.), and the tiki beams as designed are hard to improve on, imho. Lightness is much appreciated, without a doubt, but make it so light that you win all the "races," and your cruising safety may suffer. Choices, yes, so many choices.
My front beam appears to be using Spruce for the solid wood parts, not Douglas Fir: much lighter. With the application of fiberglass/epoxy over the whole assembly of wood and plywood, it is very strong and resilient.
Hi all, I regret that my post regarding the Tiki 26 beams may have been misunderstood. I don't have any doubts about the strength of the Tiki 26 beams as built to plans. I used good Doug fir for all the structural members and I'm glassing all exposed surfaces (solid wood and ply) as a precaution against future checking, which in my experience is common in these beams, leading to eventually rot, especially in the plywood fairings.
My point about Tiki 30 beams is that they are a later version of the Tiki 26 beams. Still the same shape and similar structural design, it's just that they are put together in a different way, so that most of the solid wood structural members are enclosed in the ply wood fairing, web and bottom plate rather than external. Having built beams for both boats (mine and David's Tiki 30) it's obvious which construction method is easier and faster to build and which is easier to sheath in glass. As Thomas says, by the time you get the hulls done, building complex, time-consuming beams is no fun.
I didn't suggest that I would use full-sized Tiki 30 beams on a Tiki 26 (though I suppose you could). I meant that if I were doing it over again, I would build them Tiki 30 style, scaled down to Tiki 26 dimensions. It should go much faster and be as strong, look as good or better, etc.
well thankyou for all the responses,the consensus seems to be that the beams are fiddly to build and need to be carefully looked at during maintenance,also the beams as designed seem plenty strong.