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i would like to have a strong point/s to attach a drogue on a tiki 26 can someone enlighten me please.

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If you are talking about a series drogue, this is what the Jordan series drogue people recommend:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chainplates midway between the waterline and the sheerline, 2/3 of the distance from the aft beam to the aft stem.  3/8" bolts with backing plates, aligned with the axis of pull of the bridle.

 

Paul,

here is what I did on my T30 in progress. Wether is is any good I do not know, ask me after the first storm.

The plate is 5mm stainless steel with 8mm bolts, hardwood enforcements under deck and a partial counterplate where is was possible. The end fitting is a 10mm  shackle. I  made the angle to be the same as the the pulling direction of a bridle which is 2.5.times the width between the attachment points.

 

see the picture here http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/photo/aft-deck-porthull

kim have you installed this system on your tiki,or do you yhink i might be going a bit overboard here

kim whitmyre said:

If you are talking about a series drogue, this is what the Jordan series drogue people recommend:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chainplates midway between the waterline and the sheerline, 2/3 of the distance from the aft beam to the aft stem.  3/8" bolts with backing plates, aligned with the axis of pull of the bridle.

 

I haven't installed such attachment points as of yet, but they are on my list. . .Overboard? Not at all! If the time has come to lay out a drogue, you would not want to be worrying about your attachment points!



kim whitmyre said:

I haven't installed such attachment points as of yet, but they are on my list. . .Overboard? Not at all! If the time has come to lay out a drogue, you would not want to be worrying about your attachment points!

well kim i i reckon i will go with a system as you have described.i like the fact that the strong points will be closer to the waterline which may or may not reduce the secondary motions,i feel the higher the bridle is mounted the more strain on the strongpoints.

Why not lash a bridle directly to the beam?

hans you seem to have read my mates brain,we were just discussing this issue as i was glueing the aft deck on.i think you may be onto something as i am not too keen on thru hull fixtures.but i do like the lower centre of gravity with kims suggestion.

cheers paul

Hi,

Any developments / further experiences in this area? Anyone who could repost the picture in Kim's answer, which is gone from the referenced location?

Thanks!

Jordi

Rory just has 6" alloy cleats on the aft deck that he runs a bridle off of. I have the same setup but have not used it yet. Tiki 26 is a good bit larger boat though!

I have not experienced any parachute-like storm conditions. But Little Cat is moored in a quite open position and gets pounded by the SF Bay winds frequently. A couple of weeks ago we had sustained winds over 50 knots with gusts to 60 knots without problems on the mooring. The bridle from the mooring lines terminate next to the inner lashings on the front beam, and this seems very strong. I have watched the front beam in big gusts (while moored) and don't see any movement. Although not as good as fixed strong points on the hull, this seems to work well also.

Roger, have you had any concern about the anchor rode and bridle leg chafing on the forestay bridle when the boat starts pitching when on anchor? I have had some concern with this but haven't been on anchor in such winds yet. 

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