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Lashing for tiki 26 bridles instead of bow eyes.

I have new Wichard forged bow eyes ready to install. . .Which I may do at any rate while I figure out the position of lashing holes, etc.  Can anyone share the design info from the tikis that use the bow lashing method for bridles?  Any caveats, or other thoughts are welcome!

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We have had no trouble with our bow bridle lashing holes on Peace IV.  We coated the inside of the holes with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica.  The system seems to work well.  Tightening the rope was simply a matter of using frapping turns to good advantage.  Ann

I'm planning to use them or David's (Boatsmith) method on my Tiki 26.  He used one large faired hole through each the stems of the GRP 8Meters he built and simply spliced the dyneema bridles at the stems after passing them through these holes, eliminating the hardware.  I think he has photos on his blog, but I haven't seen these in person.  There was a Tanenui at the rendezous in Islamorada this year with the the T46 style bridle lashing, 3 small holes in each stem.  It looked good and the owner said it worked fine.  I too would like to see the details of the design info on this method.  

I have just installed the second bow eye,what with making hardwood wedges at the perfect angle so the eye sits perfectly flush with the hull on both sides takes a bit of time and patience,drilling three or one hole would be a breeze.

Before building my Tiki 21 I heard of someone who had a failure of a 6mm u-bolt. Seemed a no-brainer to me to upsize on a piece of hardware that has no backup - obviously the shrouds are doubled up but we only have one forestay on the Tiki rigs. Originally I installed 10mm u-bolts, but a few years ago in Belize could only get my hands on 12mm!! Funny enough, I never have had any problems or sleepless nights over the bow bridle!! I also up-sized the forestay rigging from 4mm to 5mm. Negligible in cost and weight but again, if there aint no backup I prefer some beef in place!

Comfort during a storm is something that is pretty darn important because if you are seriously frightened, creativity goes out the window and it is hard to concentrate too.  Feeling secure that the boat is pretty much storm proof, will help you deal with whatever situation comes up.  One never knows for certain sure when storms will arrive because weather predictions are getting harder to rely on due to global warming.  Our definition of a proper boat is one that is ready to cross the Atlantic in 20 min notice.  While Peace occasionally strays from that level of readiness, it is good to strive for it especially when building.  Weight and expense are important too, but safety needs to be a high priority to ensure decades of sailing and not just one trip that might be cut short.

My bow eyes are original to the boat, which makes them close to 16 years old. They have that surface oxide on them; no pitting is visible. Thus the new Wichards in the wings. Thanks for the xlnt comments everyone.

I would like to resurrect this discussion if I may.  I am in exactly the same position except that I have no faith in my existing 6mm U bolts so must change to something else in the next few weeks (on a Tiki 26).  The 10mm Wichard U bolts are here and when offering them up to the hull to work out angles, backing pads etc I began to think that I am making life very difficult.  I would probably go for that option if the boat was undercover and could work at leisure.  Why not just drill holes and go for Dyneema lashings?  What is the consensus - 2, 3 or 4 holes @10mm diameter to take 2 or 3 turns of 4mm dyneema?   Angled to the pull of the bridle or makes little difference?  High on the bow (as my current setup which clears the mooring bridle) or low as per most pictures out there and to the plans, or makes little difference?

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