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Possibly the camber on my forward  deck is unique but the 40 mm deck blocks that the plans call for are not high enough I've glued up some more 55 mm which I hope work. Small complaint,

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On my boat, the tallest point of the blocks for the forward beam is about 78 mm. That's with the aft face of the beam plumb.

40mm  inside the block, outside is variable

You may also want to ensure that your hulls are level to each other as well as parallel in the vertical plane.

Yes yes it was plenty aggravating getting them lined up and straightened out working on bare bumpy ground. I was thinking that I should've built two ramps for them true level and the correct width apart.. It would have only taken about five sheets of plywood.

Rogerio you're saying that the height of the inside block should be 40 mm for all three beams?? I've got the hulls moved outdoors now they're lined up and trued up pretty well. once I recover from this moving operation I will start building the beams and hopefully the whole thing will become crystal-clear at that point

Yes, I respect this size, becouse I lashing beams inside the block. If I lashing outside hull, this height can be little ( minimum 2,5cm )  

I don't see how you can tighten that lashing tight enough with no frapping turns.

I think that the lashings Wharram put on the Pahi are very good. Here is one thing I would not change. There is lots of room between the beam and pad so the frapping pulls the turns in easily to give a Spanish Windlass type tightening effect. I don't even use a separate line and just pulled hand tight they are rock-solid.

They are rock solid in a seaway? Mine "knocked" on a quartering sea, so I switched back to straps.

Galway Bay said:

 I don't even use a separate line and just pulled hand tight they are rock-solid.

Yes Golway it's always seemed to me that the lashings on the 30 footer are just too short!  there's no possibility of making any frapping  turns it all. I don't see any hopes of really getting the lashings tight without using frapping turns  and having a bit of distance between the beam and the lower end of where the lashing secured to the hull side. On the 46 footer the lower end of the lashing threads through a toe rail which is a good 14 inches below the beam.......                                                    Could any one please confirm the width of a 30 foot tiki , from centerline to centerline,please.

From centerline of one hull to center of cockpit I am measuring from my plans 1.85 mts, so from centerline to centerline it should be 3.70 mts. But if you go with alternative beam lashing method 2 (as per Tiki 26 & 31) then you must allow for the beams to overhang 45mm which means the boat will have 90 mm less width, so the centerline to centerline width would then be 3.61 mts.



john james said:

Yes Golway it's always seemed to me that the lashings on the 30 footer are just too short!  there's no possibility of making any frapping  turns it all. I don't see any hopes of really getting the lashings tight without using frapping turns  and having a bit of distance between the beam and the lower end of where the lashing secured to the hull side. On the 46 footer the lower end of the lashing threads through a toe rail which is a good 14 inches below the beam.......                                                    Could any one please confirm the width of a 30 foot tiki , from centerline to centerline,please.

Ricardo is rigth

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