Tiki 38 rigging

[Tristram Cheer]

Hi All,

We are gearing up for some sailing this summer and will be hauling out in the next 8 weeks. At the moment the rigging is 7x7 Galv with a 1x19 316 on the forstay. The Galv has been neglected by us for the past 18 months sadly and its quite rusty.

I dont trust it because of our own neglect and would like to have all the galv replaced during haulout and the 316 forstay inspected. Finding Norselay in New Zealand is proving quite hard and i'm not sure i want to replace galv with galv.

Does anyone out there have any advice on the rigging choices these days? Is generic nylon covered galv a good option? Synthetics look overwhelming at the moment but i am looking for something fairly low maintenance but will last 3+ years. I'm worried about Stainless long term due to needing to inspect it (almost with a microscope) often and how hard it is to maintain a good-enough spare for at sea failures. Galv doesn't last long without monthly oiling.

Dont have the cash to simply hand it over to a rigging firm to manage and would like to know more of the in's and outs anyway. Any advice appreciated 

[paul anderson]

Go synthetic mate.make the rigging yourself,no worries.

[Tristram Cheer]

Any pointers on what to use? dynex dux? Is the 3000kg Min Breaking Load enough or is more margin needed?

paul anderson said:

Go synthetic mate.make the rigging yourself,no worries.

[paul anderson]

I used FSE Robline Ocean 3000 dyneema.6mm for my tiki 26. Here's a recent discussion on synthetics you may find helpfullhttp://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/any-updates-on-synthetic-rigging-18184.html.

Also check out Calligo.

[paul anderson]

Here's another link http://wharram.com/site/forum/design-specific-boards/tiki-and-coast...

[Marc Vieux]

Tristram,

I'm also looking at replacing the rigging on my T38 this year.

I like the idea of using synthetic and making it myself.

What did you end up doing?

[Tristram Cheer]

Hi Marc,

Sorry for the delay, we are going to go with 9mm dux and high strength thimbles :) In the end it just made sense and we'll give ourselves plenty of time to do the splices

Marc Vieux said:

Tristram,

I'm also looking at replacing the rigging on my T38 this year.

I like the idea of using synthetic and making it myself.

What did you end up doing?

[paul anderson]

It's been an absolute pleasure mate,there is nothing i like better than spending my time helping people who can't even be bothered to acknowledge the response to their request for help.

[kim whitmyre]

On my T26, I used Dux (9mm) for the forestay, and plain dyneema for the shrouds and bridles, with Precourt deadeyes. This was at least 5 years ago: still going strong. I originally used plain  9mm dyneema for the forestay, but as it cycled so much I replaced it with the Dux which basically stays as installed. Dyneema is much nicer to grab while moving about the boat than braided steel wire...

[Tristram Cheer]

My apologies Paul, I thought I had but clearly I haven't, Been very busy with haulout prep - Your input has been very helpful and the link's you provided were very handy :)

paul anderson said:

It's been an absolute pleasure mate,there is nothing i like better than spending my time helping people who can't even acknowledge the response to their request for help.

[Éric Bouvéron]

One question about the Dynema: The diameter to be used is the same as the stainless one? And can it be used as well for the line which holds on the dolphin, under the mast beam?
Thanks,
Éric

[kim whitmyre]

Éric, the dyneema is usually a bit larger diameter than the ss wire, but also usually twice to three times as strong. Properly fitted Dynex Dux (heat-set dyneema) would be more than strong enough for the dolphin striker, but it would seem prudent to fit a chafe sleeve on the Dux at the point of contact with the striker.

[Éric Bouvéron]

Kim, Absolutly, chafe is my concern with the textile. But I will definitly go for it on my boat, thanks for your reply,
Éric