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Having recently got a tiki 21 which i am more than happy with, but the beams need to be replaced; i was toying with the idea of swapping over to aluminium tubes rather than the H-section wooden ones.
i cant really find any info as to what type and size of tube to use i know this requires some modifcations if anyone could lead me in the right way that would be helpfull there are some 21/26 which seem to have done this
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Hi Mark,
I think you have my old tiki and I was about to replace the beams with ali square box (RHS) which is why the aft sockets have been cut as they are. The reason i chose RHS is given on page 5 of the old tiki forum at James Wharram designs, follow sticky; link. As you know further modifiations are required, i'll try and remember where I got to with these if it will help.If I had undercover space I would remake them using better quality/seaoned timber.
Ian
Don't change. Wooden H-section is one masterpiece of engineering. But if you wanna make one test, replace frontbeam for one tube in the same diameter of your mast (4" ?) with 3mm wall (minimum). Uses T6061Alloy anodized. lashing like wood beam.
Hi Mark,
My wood beams on Cookie are now 21 years old and still going strong. Originally made of good quality ply and mahogany wood with lots of microfibers in the fillets for better joint strength. My only drawback with them is that the H section with lots of compression chocks makes it a real pain for sanding and painting all the recessed areas. What I would do next time is build them as per plan and then add 6mm ply covers over front and back vertical faces to make smooth box-beams which can easily be epoxy sheathed. Then they will last indefinitely with proper upkeep of paint etc.
Just a thought..............
Cheers Rory
Talking the major specialized in Tiki21...my all respects
hi ian
yes i have your old tiki, you say rhs ali box what size and cost where you looking at also where would you be getting it from, interesting idea seems good one to me
Ian Bushrod said:
Hi Mark,
I think you have my old tiki and I was about to replace the beams with ali square box (RHS) which is why the aft sockets have been cut as they are. The reason i chose RHS is given on page 5 of the old tiki forum at James Wharram designs, follow sticky; link. As you know further modifiations are required, i'll try and remember where I got to with these if it will help.If I had undercover space I would remake them using better quality/seaoned timber.
Ian
hi rory
your boat looks modififed is this your work if so how did yo go about it. plus good idea with beams thank you
Rory McDougall said:
Hi Mark,
My wood beams on Cookie are now 21 years old and still going strong. Originally made of good quality ply and mahogany wood with lots of microfibers in the fillets for better joint strength. My only drawback with them is that the H section with lots of compression chocks makes it a real pain for sanding and painting all the recessed areas. What I would do next time is build them as per plan and then add 6mm ply covers over front and back vertical faces to make smooth box-beams which can easily be epoxy sheathed. Then they will last indefinitely with proper upkeep of paint etc.
Just a thought..............
Cheers Rory
Hi Mark
4x4x1/4 (100x100x6) it's sat in my garden now! I bought from Blackburn metals. Price was about the same as a B pack resin and ply/timber but should be quicker to do. I would have drilled and tapped helicoils for the cleats using monel pop rivets or bolts for the ali angle platform ledges and trampoline lashing points, all bolts would have to be A4 stainless. I'm not convinced it's the way to go besides all the other mods needed it does'nt feel right aesthetically.
Ian
hi ian
thats very intresting... i am considering modding a bit more to accomadate different beams...maybe we could do deal ... if nothing else you could get some garden back let me know...
Ian Bushrod said:
Hi Mark
4x4x1/4 (100x100x6) it's sat in my garden now! I bought from Blackburn metals. Price was about the same as a B pack resin and ply/timber but should be quicker to do. I would have drilled and tapped helicoils for the cleats using monel pop rivets or bolts for the ali angle platform ledges and trampoline lashing points, all bolts would have to be A4 stainless. I'm not convinced it's the way to go besides all the other mods needed it does'nt feel right aesthetically.
Ian
Mark
If you still want to go down the aluminium route my email address is eileen@braemuir.fsnet.co.uk
Ian
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