Tiki 38 aluminum tiller bar

[Giovani Frisene]

Is there anyone with some ideas or images of an aluminum tiller bar for the Tiki 38. What should be the diameter and the wall? And the connection with the tiller make the same hole for the pin? The structure will strain or maybe the hole in the aluminum post will deteriorate?
Thanks for any help! I still didn´t start with the deckpod but things are going...

[Brad Ingram]

I don't know if it is any help or if you could scale up, but I use a 1x1 inch by 3/16 inch wall aluminum square tube section for my tiller bar on my Tiki 21 and it is plenty strong enough. My tiller dowels are oak dowells, and there has barely been any chafe from the aluminum. However, I'm probably going to switch to some metal dowells in the future. 

[Brett Parker]

I think this is a good way to go. Mine, a t section in hardwood is quite heavy. You could always plug the ends with with hardwood and when it gets worn just fill with epoxy and graphite. Anodising would would be a good idea for looks if you want. My self steering windvane has ropes that attach to the centre of the tiller.  You could use square section too. Remember that occasionally you will be handling this for steering from ourside the pod, although I more use the tillers for this. II think this is the way to go!! cheers Brett

[dave tomlinson]

If you mean the connecting bar between the tillers, then mine is ss pipe about 1inch, doesn't,t need to be super strong as it's taking push pull loads, mine is mounted close behind the tillers which keeps the rear deck clear, it has a threaded adjustment so you can keep the rudders parallel to each other ,I made nylon bushs for ss bolts to make the connection to the rudders, and the bushs can be replaced when worn.

[Giovani Frisene]

I liked the idea of a square tube section. 3/16 is super strong I think use this size to my t38! Can you send me some images?

Brad Ingram said:

I don't know if it is any help or if you could scale up, but I use a 1x1 inch by 3/16 inch wall aluminum square tube section for my tiller bar on my Tiki 21 and it is plenty strong enough. My tiller dowels are oak dowells, and there has barely been any chafe from the aluminum. However, I'm probably going to switch to some metal dowells in the future. 

[Giovani Frisene]

Thank you Bret, I think hardwood is too heavy too.  I´ll anodising it, thank you. Can you send me some images of your self steering windvane?

Brett Parker said:

I think this is a good way to go. Mine, a t section in hardwood is quite heavy. You could always plug the ends with with hardwood and when it gets worn just fill with epoxy and graphite. Anodising would would be a good idea for looks if you want. My self steering windvane has ropes that attach to the centre of the tiller.  You could use square section too. Remember that occasionally you will be handling this for steering from ourside the pod, although I more use the tillers for this. II think this is the way to go!! cheers Brett

[Giovani Frisene]

Thank you Dave,

Did You move to rear your tiller bar? Does it become havier? can you send me some images I appreciate that. I you please send some close pictures from the bushs.

dave tomlinson said:

If you mean the connecting bar between the tillers, then mine is ss pipe about 1inch, doesn't,t need to be super strong as it's taking push pull loads, mine is mounted close behind the tillers which keeps the rear deck clear, it has a threaded adjustment so you can keep the rudders parallel to each other ,I made nylon bushs for ss bolts to make the connection to the rudders, and the bushs can be replaced when worn.

[dave tomlinson]

Hi sorry don,t have any good photos but will take some next time I am at the boat, bar was behind rudders from new and is not heavy to steer at all, as leverage is provided by the tiller length, it would be too hard to steer with the crossbar though as it has no leverage.

[Brett Parker]

I will try and send you some photos tomorrow too.