Hi John,

     Folks have been asking about your here at Manjack.  We are now settled in where you used to anchor behind Rat Cay on a huge anchor that was dug deep in the sand for the season.  Nev is fixing a dinghy, I am doing some gardening on island, and we plan a sail to grocery shop three islands down in a few days.  I was thinking a few days ago that most nights I think back on the day and feel that I have been happy and joyful most of the time.  I guess living on the water makes it that way.  Want to come for a winter warmer?  Love, Ann and Nev 

Hi John,

I hope you are well - how goes the building?

John,

The book looks great, I may have to read it!

In the meantime, if you ever need an extra pair of hands, by all means, send me a message and I'll come on down.

Thanks for your message.

Bob

I hadn't considered that one. I'll most likely do the Wharram sliding window.

Probably use type 1 PVC for the rails. Have you ever seen Wiley ports? I have some on a small gaffer that I built. You can leave them open in the rain and still get some ventilation.

Marc

John,

Check out Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI.

Hope all is well with you and your build.

Hi John, I'd wonder if you could send me your mail address, there's a couple of things I'd like to talk in private.

Pls take a look at your inbox

I've already sent them. Tell me if you don't get them.

Hi John

Bit confused by your comment.....any clarification??

Cheers, Rory

John,

I like your boat. Looks good!

Hey John,

That's about what I have for clearance.  My beam block placements do make it tight for doing finish between them and the cabin ends though. Oh well, scotchbrite wrapped over a piece of ply for sanding in there... Can't have everything.

Yes, I had built all of the beams before fitting the blocks. I then used tapered spacers placed on the center lines of the decks to hold the beams level and at the desired heights. From there it was patterns of scraps for fitting before the actual blocks, but all with the beams suspended in place. 

ahhh ummmmmmvery very interesting yes that makes great since to me now. I see there is  no denying it it's time to move out of my shop into the snow with hull2 . 

Sorry John, I never got an accurate weight on my T30. Now I have load cells and weigh anything up to 20,000 lbs.

John,

You might want to consider working room between the  blocks and cabin ends.

1/2" or so works, if you don't have large fingers

John, 

I just decided not to make the recesses, particularly the ones between the rudders and the sterns. Thought that it would be better to have the rudders rolling over lashings rather than  fiberglassed, painted surfaces. I did take care in the holes though. I made 7/16" holes, coated, then filled with epoxy/silica and later drilled out to just about 15/64"". Drilling wasn't fun at all.  Managed to stay 1/32" within the edges of the 7/16 plugs. If you're using 5 mm line as suggested, you have get the ends so that they don't have a bulb to fit through the holes  Check out Bertrand Fercot's page fro his description .

Hey John,

They made a cross grain laminate for strength, same as at the top of the mast.

I ended up laminating the whole thickness out of hydrotek ply. I covered it with some scrap xynole that I had. Two layers on the edges. Time will tell.

We miss you, John!  Come down for a visit!  

Ann and Nev

Ha ! So you decided on a wood mast after all. Looks great. I just finished painting mine about 6 weeks ago. Over 2 months of mornings, nights and some weekend work.

Looks like you're getting real close.

Hi John,

Just catching up on emails.  Our original shrouds were 8850 and 9150 which left barely enough space for a shackle and lashing.  The total length (including lashing) I have noted for the replacements is 9315 and 9240 which gave a gap for lashing of 11 cm or less after stretch was taken out of the spectra.