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Tiki 31

making the most of the Tiki 31

Members: 29
Latest Activity: on Monday

Discussion Forum

Mast Rake 5 Replies

Started by Thom delForge. Last reply by Pieter on Monday.

Beam 3 4 Replies

Started by Pieter. Last reply by Pieter Aug 13.

Mast Rake? 3 Replies

Started by Thom delForge. Last reply by laurent Oct 5, 2014.

Comment Wall

Comment by Paul Lawton on February 2, 2009 at 4:07pm
I've started this group to draw out the creative juices of anyone who has worked on a Tiki 31. I love the boat, but fully recognise that it is not everyone's cup of tea. It isn't a workboat and isn't set up as a traveler, despite what Wharram says. It has so much potential - but how to realise it? Should I cut the aft cabins off and build Tiki 30 style cabins? Is it worth keeping the schooner rig? Should i trim beam 3 to make it a mast beam like on the Tiki 38, freeing up more cabin space?

There are many examples of variations on the design - like Lookfar in Vancouver.

Why doesn't mine go upwind well - Wharram says it was the best upwind design!

Anyway let me know your thoughts.

Paul
Comment by Thom delForge on February 20, 2009 at 6:53pm
Paul -- I have been building/sailing/rebuilding/now modifing my TIKI 31 for over ten years -- this will be the last major rebuild for me -- so I want to get it as right as I can. Some of my observations when sailing and generally hanging out are that the twin 'cockpits' are seldom used -- the deck between the fore cabins never used and the boat tends to have a rear weight bias. The deck lockers partition the three areas of the cockpit into three separate spaces -- too small to be really useful -- my new approach will be to use one locker box transversely behind a wheel steering and drop the deck 4 inches between the hulls -- now we are talking a very wide center, and somewhat protected cockpit (16 feet wide). I will add a front 'pod' similar to the TIKI 46 -- as for weight -- all in all I should be close to what I have now. The major 'big' idea has been my composite beams. They are built to the same dimensions but much, much lighter. I have not finished them -- but I figure to be under 50 pounds!
I need a little help with mast rake -- I am not clear as to the benefits of greater angle -- I am about 5' on the TIKI 38 I have read other builders with as much as 9' fore mast and 7' main.

I have been self taught on all aspects -- therefore much of my discoveries could use a dose of experience. This project will be going on this spring in New Bern, North Carolina -- anyone wishing to help, observe, etc. will be welcome -- I have plenty of space and grill a pretty mean salmon -- and always cold beer in the cooler.

ciao,

Thom -- AKA 'TIKI THOM'
Comment by Thom delForge on February 20, 2009 at 9:49pm
Amendment -- I will also be raising my mast 3 feet to clear the new POD. Any comments?

TD
Comment by Paul Lawton on February 21, 2009 at 1:51pm
Thom,

These are some pretty significant changes, I look forward to watching your progress. On mast rake I agree that I'm not sure why so much rake is used. Mine is definitely over-raked which produces a lot of weather helm and the top of the aft mast is in line with the attachment of the rear shrouds, which lead to mast wobble and beam twist - definitely needs addressing.

I saw a picture of you boat, she looks really well looked after. I'd love to find out more about your wheel steering, is it much better than the tiller bar?

What engine are you using? What is its fuel consumption and best speed?

Thanks
Paul
Comment by Thom delForge on February 21, 2009 at 9:19pm
Paul -- As for the wheel vs tiller -- I am not sure -- I was excited about the whip-staff arrangement but didn't feel there was enough movement before one runs out of room so I elected to use the wheel steering from my Nari plans.

My power choice is a 9.9 Yamaha electric start long shaft. I remember averaging about 3/4 gal per hour @ an average of 5+ knots. I have powered up to 7+ knots at full throttle. That was an eight day motor up the ICW (tidal). My new 'Kort Nozzle' should improve the performance. I originally used the planed motor box -- then changed to a Gerlick vertical drop unit; however, I plan to go back to the original with a articulated hinge that will allow an additional 5 inches of drop in the down position and then raise up to clear the water. There will be a lock mechanism to prevent the motor from pulling itself out in a 'power' reverse. I had come up with a 'bridge' in which to mount a double purchase block system to make the job of easily lowering the engine. There is still another item regarding I would like to try -- and that is attaching a control to the motor that would allow for the motor to work with the steering.

Because the 'pod' will be about 8" below the beams -- I would like to get some feedback -- I really don't want to be surfing in a 'chop'. Wharram's 'POD' for the TIKI 30 looks to be about 8" below it's beam level -- I would like to have that confirmed before I start cutting material.

My mast steps where made from an idea I found in PCA years ago by a Canadian builder named Rolly Herbich -- It consists of a S/Steel collar wleded to a flat plate with a hinged bearing between a second flat plate. To create the mast rake is a simple matter of inserting the proper shim between the two plates. I have welded locating angle to straddle the mast step beam locations.

By placing the weight bias a little more forward I hope to balance the helm -- it's not bad -- but I really have little to compare (as I have mentioned -- I am teaching myself what I can -- relying of other experienced sailors to help keep me from making too many mistakes).

I am very excited to see what the 'Kort Nozzle' effect does -- in theory it should be very good. Sea People several years back had an article with a follow up that I have never seen. I will take good notes and plenty of photos -- good or bad -- The unit I bought was from Washington state USA @ a cost of around $130 US. (Pooder Built)
http://pooderbuilt.com/Prop%20Guard%203.JPG

Thanks for starting the Tiki 31 blog and thanks to 'Budget Boaters' for the site and inspiration.
Comment by Paul Lawton on February 25, 2009 at 8:53am
Thom,
I currently have 2 18 year old Mercury 2 stroke 9.9s and find them very unrelaible and underpowered and burn too much fuel. I'd like to switch to a 9.9 4 stroke Yamaha FT (High Thrust). With the old engines I have had trouble motoring into tide and wind. I need reliability and a good kick.
The engines are mounted on those spring assisted lowering brackets mounted on Beam 4. It feels a long way down when trying to raise them and the engines are very exposed to waves and chop, which means they frequently have waves breaking over them, which can't help reliability.
I'm alsp not that keen on using 2 stroke engines in quiet idylic river extuaries with delicate ecosystems - doesn't seem to fit the Wharram ethos.
Looks like I've convinced myself to splash out on a new Yamaha - seems to be around £1,800 - do you know a cheaper way to buy them?

Cheers
Paul
Comment by Thom delForge on February 25, 2009 at 3:57pm
I have been pleased with my Yamaha -- I did add a 'Kort Nozzle' type ring around the prop. Hopefully I will have Thomcat back in the water this summer to test all the 'new' innovations out. As for price -- I bought mine from a Canadian dealer, although that may not be so good for you. Ebay Euro might offer some deals. You may want to consider the 15 hp unit -- same weight, more 'poop'. My mounting is the same as yours -- I plan to go back the the original unit Wharram designed. I will run two S/S straps from the transom to the floor of the engine pod bracing. I also built a bridge over the engine to allow for double purchase lift mechanism -- keeps the weight manageable. By placing some of the weight bias forward I hope to balance the boat out -- you may notice the 31 tend to set a little low in the stern. I may have mentioned that I am raising the masts 3 feet to clear the mid cockpit POD. I also may elect to slightly lower the main cockpit a few inches (maybe up to 5 inches). Since the POD will hang 7 inches lower than the bottom of the beams having the central cockpit a few inches lower should be OK -- I can always raise it back. I will not be using the deck lockers as such -- I am keeping one and mounting it perpendicular to the hulls -- using it as a helm seat petrol storage.

That's about it for now.

cheers,

Thom
Comment by Paul Lawton on June 14, 2009 at 1:20pm
Hi Greg,
One Mast is a good question and I've discussed it with Hanneke at Wharram designs. She wasn't sure but suggested positioning the single mast between beams 1 and 2 on a longitudinal strut. I'm keen to try it in order to tidy up the sail plan and also I have a feeling that the schooner rig is to weight fwd for the 31. As a result she tends to go bow down in a blow and if you get a following sea as well the stern breaks away making it hard to surf smoothly without a lot of helm. I learned this coming across the channel in a 7 (I think) with all sail down accept a small fwd main. Still reached 15 kts but had real trouble stopping her rounding up.

My sails are as you described, with straps inside and zippers on the sleeves. The zips tend to age and when I bought the boat las t year i had a lot of trouble getting them to start and slide.

I'm almost certainly going to try one mast and a reduced beam 3, allowing more accomodation to be closed in aft.

Cheers
Paul
Comment by Thom delForge on June 15, 2009 at 8:54pm
Greg -- The Tiki 30 is a taller rig -- no matter, these boats can use a bit more sail. I considered setting my 31 up with a single mast -- but after serious consideration decided to build as planed. I am in the process of extending my mast a total of 4'. The idea of balance seems to be the operative principle. As for deck clutter -- the mizzen mast does not add much because it is behind the cockpit anyway.
I believe the 'straps' issue is written somewhere -- but they are not at all complicated. Most sail makers that I had talked to understood from the get go.
Comment by Thom delForge on June 20, 2009 at 8:34am
Google 'buckles' , 'buckle hardware', 'luggage repair hardware' -- there are firms know as 'finders' in the shoe making trade -- they usually have distributors that will sell small quantities.

Thom

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