Tiki 8m Build

[boatsmith]

We started another Tiki 8m in late Sept. Here are pics of the hulls in construction. We use vinylester resin, biaxial fiberglass and Divinycell foam. This is a layer of Chopped strand mat. It is resin rich and helps to avoid print -thru and water permeability.

Here we have installed the biax and foam and are vacuum bagging the hull half

The bag pulled and ready for the inner skin

Repeat 3 more times and we get to this stage

glass down the keel inside and out

two happy hulls

[boatsmith]

Look up 3 and 4 photos 

[boatsmith]

Her is a rudder core. They are made from GPO-3 fiberglass sheet 1/2" thick. The holes are just to lighten them up.

Next we laminate on cheeks of Coosa board to fatten the rudders up for a better foil shape. They are shaped to a NACA 06 shape. These are the tillers.They are built up from Coosa and sheathed in uni-directional and biaxial carbon fibers.This is a new idea. We are glassing these rope loops to the end of ...

Here we have attached the rudder to the sternpost and glued the tiller to the rudder head.

[boatsmith]

Battery hold downs and blocks.

Chainplates, rough.
Chainplates, nicer

Nav station desk top.
Nav station desk installed.

Cockpit table.

[boatsmith]

Cockpit console

Boarding ladder roughed out

Hatch Landing

Hatch

The main wiring chase turned out to be not large enough. We changed the 2" pvc for a piece of 3".

We had to change the cockpit side as well

[Levi Verwoest]

Are those chain plates solid glass? Thinking of changing mine as that are alloy and I can watch them flex underway

[boatsmith]

Levi, the chainplates are of Coosa board reinforced with glass. when you say alloy, I hopeyou mean SS as opposed to aluminum. Flexing would indicate that the chainplates are too thin. I have  upsized the thickness on several boats beyond the load requirements just to eliminate flexing. It is also important to have proper alignment of the chainplate with the shroud.  

Levi Verwoest said:

Are those chain plates solid glass? Thinking of changing mine as that are alloy and I can watch them flex underway

[Levi Verwoest]

Coosa board looks like interesting stuff.

Yes my chain plates are aluminium, 6mmx50mmx 300. Not a lot of flexing but enough to make me want to replace with something better. I am removing as much metal as possible from the boat. 

Loving the pictures of your build

[boatsmith]

I think that 6mm aluminum is not good! ^mm SS would be alright. It is not hard to make chainplates of solid glass or carbon.These composites are not good in a sheer load. It is much better to wrap the fibers around a ss tube or saddle. Or, you can build composite chainplates such as these and use loupes around them for the bottom deadeyes.

 

[Ian R]

Nylon for the blocks such a very good idea!  Will use that idea if I need to replace mine at some point.

I discovered the uses of tufnol myself, for other things. Wish I had used more of it from the start.

I now buy nylon flanged bushes for any "holes" for lashing etc and bond them in (cheap on Ebay). Never liked the overbore method myself, although I have used it, always have struggled with air bubbles when filling holes with epoxy.