A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
I'm wondering if any other Tiki 38 builders have chosen the external jib halyard option rather than roller reefing. What I would like to know is where the external halyard block is supposed to go, as that is not shown on the plans. It seems logical to make a strop to go around either the upper or lower shroud horns, but without the mast up I can't tell which would work better. I'd love to hear from someone who has done this successfully...
The halyard blocks for the jib and spinnaker go through the masthead groove in the same way as the foresail halyard blocks, only coming out the bow side of the groove rather than the aft side. The mast ears are too low, will probably be too full , and getting the pull centered might be something of a trial. I built the external halyards for jib and spinnaker on the theory that it was simpler, more reliable, and kept the interior of the mast sealed. While all that is true, I would build the internal jib halyard if I had it to do over again.
The external halyard leads down to the end of the number two beam, and when tightened up to keep the jib luff straight pulls the masthead to that side. When you tack the jib luff needs tightening again because the masthead has been jacked off to that side. If you tighten it, then you are putting a huge strain on the mast after you tack again. Attempts to reconfigure the halyard lead down the front of the mast spoil the flow over the main and are almost impossible to get to lead correctly to the midships winch, meaning you can never really tighten it properly. Consequently. I strongly recommend that you put the jib halyard in the mast. You can still use the hanked on sail and the centerline lanyard with the internal halyard, so it does not commit you to using a roller furler if you do not want to.
Hi Ron, that's great advice, and what I needed to know. Just had a gut feeling there would be issues with that setup! Thanks so much,
One other thing. I would still put two spinnaker halyards through the masthead groove. It's always good to have a spare, and on long hauls where you are on one tack for a long time you can choose which halyard to use to minimize wear a the gear. An additional point is that two halyards can be lead forward to the hull forestay attachment points if something happens to the forestay or if you need to move the masthead forward to tighten the lanyard. You might think about making the masthead groove a little wider to accommodate all four halyards- I had to beat the last one into the groove with a rubber mallet in order to get the mast cap on. Curious about where your boat is located and how far along you are.
My boat is on Hornby Island, off the West coast of Canada. Plans are to launch this spring at which time it will have been 10 years in the making! Everything is built, just working on details such as wiring, running and standing rigging, and building a dinghy. I've been meaning to upload some pictures but by the end of the day am usually too bagged.
I decided to go everything external. Yes, the setup on the plan is not good as the halyard on the side replace the shroud on one tack.
I just put a block at the front bottom of the mast and a cleat. Done. It works well, i can manage good tension. I have added a 4 to 1 hoist at the tack point to tighten the thing.
Easy to monitor, easy to change. Keep it simple!
It's nice to have an internal halyard to use as a safety line when mast climbing. . .Not absolutely necessary, as using a Klemheist (French Prusik) around the mast, connected to your harness will stop a fall even if all the other lines fail. But options are good things!
I put this box sheave in my mast for the jib halyard:
I lead the jib and spi halyard both to the port side of the mastcase just aft of the anchor roller, and than through a cleat.
The halyard is far off the mast and does not get jammed in the sleave of the mainsail.
The only thing is that it is a bit in the way while tacking.
Tiki 38 Tinto
My jib halyard leads from a sheave at the mast head to the outboard end of the second beam to which is lashed a turning block and then along the beam to a halyard jammer which is placed at the outboard side of the motor box. This enables me to use the anchor capstan to tension the halyard if I wish to. In practise I seldom use the winch except to take a turn around it and sweat up the halyard by pulling up the slack between the winch and the jammer. I am not a fan of a roller reefer even tho its convenience cant be disputed. I have seen too many headsails unroll either partially or totally in a big blow!
I added a downhall to pull the headsail down in a blow which is simply a line leading from a cleat on the mast case near the anchor capstan to a turning block at the tack of the headsail and then tied off to the top of the headsail in the loop formed by the halyard being tied to the headsail. As I lower the headsail I pull the downhaul in once the sail is lowered, cleat it off so that the sail cannot ride up the forestay. This means I dont have to go up front in rough conditions if I dont want to do so.
Sounds like you rigged your jib halyard according to the plans. Have you experienced the same problems Ron Hall did or is this less of an issue when blue water cruising? It sure would be simpler for me to stick to the plans as the masts are built, glassed, and painted.
I like your downhaul setup...simple and definitely safer if you have to douse the beast in a sudden squall.