Wharram Builders and Friends

A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts

Hello everyone, I'm new here. I'm starting to build my Tiki 21, and I already have a question. In the building .
plans, it is indicated to fasten the hull panel on the keel, stem and stern poste with wire loop. You need to drill the panel. Is this usual? There is no other method less laborious or invasive
There is no indications in the plans about how anda when these wires should be removed..

Views: 342

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Ahoy Airton,

     This is "stitch and glue" construction:


 I had the same question once...

You don't remove them. Once everything is glued, you just cut the wires flush, and leave the rest in the wood and epoxy.

Good luck with your construction!


I have seen the vídeo Just now. Very usefull. Mainly the parte "sanding is nice".!

I tried the stitch and glue method as prescribed in the plans on a larger Wharram and had a hard time with it. It seemed pretty laborious and difficult to get tension where needed.  I found one can often use screws or removable nails to hold the panels in place until the glue dries. If using stainless or bronze screws you can probably just leave them in place. I had the fastest and best results with plain steel wood screws. Pull them after the resin has set and fill the holes, a quick squirt with resin from a syringe, then fill any remaining divots when you do the fairing and glassing. I found this method easier than the stitch and glue, particularly when some panel distortion was required by the design. Obviously this only works on the parts of the boat where you have some solid wood behind the panel to screw or nail into. The other thing you can often use are 'C' clamps. Just place small ply pads to spread the load to avoid marking the surface and put small pieces of plastic under the clamp points to make removal easiest. 

I was just thinking about use stainless steel screen. But I am afraid that they should be so tight avoinding the panels get the expect distortion.
Read screw instead of screen. My text editor is stupid.

Airton, dá pra remover sim. O arame de cobre vc consegue extraindo a capa de fios rigidos de 2mm. Arame de aço galvanizado, gruda no epoxi e não sai, o de cobre sai. 

Valeu Rogério, enfim um brasileiro nesse fórum. Você sugere então que eu mantenha o que está no Projeto e use o arame?
Eu construí uma canoa Canadense com esse método "stressed plywood" e fixei o compensado com parafuso. Quando fui abrir os painéis inserindo as anteparas em alguns pontos o compensado (4mm) quebrou. Por isso estou com receio de usar parafusos agora no Tiki 21.

Reply to Discussion


© 2024   Created by Budget Boater.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service