A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
I am interested in doing what Scott Williams is building instead of a trampoline between the mast beam and fore beam ie a timber deck.Now how would one go about securing this deck,especially to the mast beam,i know boatsmith has done this but if anyone has some pics it would be mighty fine to have a looksee.
I will soon have the framework assembled for my deck and will post pictures when I do. I discussed different ideas about this with Boatsmith as he as also built 3 Tiki 8-meters with slatted forward decks. The key is to keep the deck as light as possible while still building it to adequate strength. Mine will be supported buy fore and aft stringers hung under the mast and forward beams, also supplemented by the athwart ship beams to which the planking will be fastened. These beams will rest on the inboard toe rails, supporting the deck in the same way the cockpit seats are supported on the cabin sides.
Scott thanks for the heads up,as always you fellas have some innovative ideas,i was shall we say''all at sea''as to exactly how to fasten the deck to the beams but still allowing for movement or give.There is a timber here in oz called western red cedar that is lightweight and supposedly quite rot resistant that i am planning on using as teak is just too expensive to be an option,although i am a bit worried about its strength.
i have built an umiak, which is a skin on frame boat that has a tied together frame. The frame cannot be rigid as movement is required.this experience has taught me much about tied together boats.
I am also planning a plank deck for the tiki21 and the Proa 30 i am building, as up here in pacific northwest of america it is mostly too damn cold for trampoline sailing. My plan is to use lashings of dynex dux synthetic line to secure the deck planks to the structure using constructed knots as can be seen on Caligo's site where they have various 'hardware' made of this synthetic rope. We will be using what are known as 'block' knots on the planks. These will be hung from the main beam and the fore beam as a structure. That is to say the whole of the plank deck will be tied together first before being secured to the boat. This way we can reduce the amount of fiddling around during set up to only a few strategic knots....we will use frapping to tension the deck in place.
The planking structure is designed with the planks actually spaced by roving of line between the planks, in a sort of braiding fashion. There are four transverse planks acting as 'beams' for the deck structure. These are one at each end and one each a third of the distance in. The two middle transverse planks are secured by lines to cleats on the hulls. These transverse planks are cross tied in diagonals to each of the longitudinal planks of the deck therefore each plank has a total of eight knots securing it in place.
we are using local cedar that is reasonably cheap to build the deck.
make any sense at all the way i explained it?
Your idea makes a lot of sense and the frapping allows for maximum movement,which if done correctly i suspect will be uber strong.Also this way seems to be a hybrid between a tramp and a fixed deck.
I've now completed my wooden foredeck and posted photos on my blog, along with a description of the design and construction process. Hope this helps: http://tiki26element2.blogspot.com/2011/10/building-forward-decks.html
Here's a preview:
Scott thank you for the wonderful pics and description of the work at a time that must be most difficult for you.Your build is the benchmark as far as tiki 26 go and has been helpful to me and i am sure many others too.