strong point for drogue

[paul anderson]

i would like to have a strong point/s to attach a drogue on a tiki 26 can someone enlighten me please.

[Roger]

Hi Brad,

I use a length of 5/16" dyneema doubled up in a knotted loop through a hole in each (inner) end of my front beam. The eyes on my mooring bridle are shackled to the dyneema loops, rather than the beam. The dyneema shows no wear after two years - that stuff is amazing. Yes, 50 knots no worries. We get 30 knots here during the winter all the time. The mooring bridle is 1/2" 3-strand nylon which is nice and stretchy.

[Jordi]

Thanks Roger.

The building plans do indeed recommend tying the anchor briddle to the front beam and not the deck cleats "for serious anchoring". (To clarify: I'm talking about a Tiki 30 in my case.)

[Roger]

PS note that my beams are aluminum so the "holes" are in a thick plate bolted to the beams - would be more complicated with a wooden beam. We get high winds here but not so much waves (only one to two feet max). In a life or death situation at sea, a failure of the front lashings would lose the drogue and the beam. Don't know if the lashings are more or less fail safe than  well designed hull strong points.

[NeilR]

I don't think a thread like this will ever get old and is of high interest. 

I found this video recently and although a small mono, it is interesting to see an actual deployment of a JSD and the forces working on the boat.

https://youtu.be/IUfHUGHwdaw

[patrick lennon]

How exactly would the bridle be attached to the front beam?

Jordi said:

Thanks Roger.

The building plans do indeed recommend tying the anchor briddle to the front beam and not the deck cleats "for serious anchoring". (To clarify: I'm talking about a Tiki 30 in my case.)

[Jordi]

Sorry, I was mistaken: 2nd beam, with fairleads on the 1st beam. The bridle would be attached to cleats at the end of the beams. It's in page 31 of the [my] Tiki 30 building plans.

patrick lennon said:

How exactly would the bridle be attached to the front beam?

Jordi said:

Thanks Roger.

The building plans do indeed recommend tying the anchor briddle to the front beam and not the deck cleats "for serious anchoring". (To clarify: I'm talking about a Tiki 30 in my case.)