"Design Improvement Package 2" for Tangaroa MK1 ???

[Andrii Fedchuk]

Hi Wharram's Family,

I am a lucky refitter of Tangaroa MK1 and i am looking to make a I-style beams and lashings for my boat. MK1 was designed on rectangular beams on metal brackets with rubber shocks.

I have found a "Design Improvement Package 2 - for Classic Designs" in plans. Inside a description i haven't find my boat in support list. Just Tangaroa MK4 only. 

I don't know all differences in beams between MK1 and MK4. Please help me to get clear.

Does the "Design Improvement Package 2 - for Classic Designs" acceptable for MK1 or not?

Can I make an I-style beams for my boat or not?

Help!!!

Thanks,
Andrii Fedchuk

[Budget Boater]

I am sure that you could build Tiki beams for your MK I. I would imagine it the the attachment of the beams that is the issue between MK I and MK IV hulls.

The MK IV has beam troughs that can accept a locating pin for the new I-beams. On the MK I you would need to devise a system to keep the lashed beams from moving athwartship. This can be accomplished with locating blocks on the deck and bottoms of the new beams, or by creating a cradle (external beam trough) with a locating pin.

You will also need to create reinforced lashing blocks on the hulls.

[Andrii Fedchuk]

Oh, thanks for detailed description. 

I understand first part mostly. Placement of reinforcement on the deck, on the position where beams should be mounted. 

I have one misunderstanding at the lower part of picture where another kind of reinforcement shown. Is it another way of reinforcement beams-deck joint or additional? If it is additional, where first and second should meet each other.

And what about "tapered hardwood block" shown in the opposite sides of reiforcement platform? What should be on the beam's side cutted off to fit these "tapered blocks"?

Please help me to get clear with this.

Regards,

Andriy

PS. How do you think is it necessary to buy  "Design Improvement Package 2 - for Classic Designs" or i can draw or find all plans somewhere here on forum?

[Budget Boater]

The top and bottom are two completely different options for fitting lashed beams. The top drawing are examples of the locating blocks I described, and the bottom is an example of an external beam trough with pin.

The external beam trough has an arched floor so water can drain out. The beam would be elevated off of the bottom of the beam trough by the hardwood blocks on the ends, which need to be tapered so that they present a flat surface for the beam to sit on, since the surface they are glued to is tapered. Nothing goes on the beam for this, since the pin prevents the beam moving athwartship.

I believe the locating blocks method will be easier and more reliable. These are not deck/hull reinforcements, but simply a method that can be used for lashed beams on deck. You will still need to reinforce the hull/deck areas in addition to using one of these or other methods. Generally the hull/deck areas under the beams and lashing points is 36mm thick PLUS the addition of the lashing points, locating blocks, etc.

I do not know how necessary it is for you to buy the design improvement package, since I do not know your skill level.

Andrii Fedchuk said:

Oh, thanks for detailed description. 

I understand first part mostly. Placement of reinforcement on the deck, on the position where beams should be mounted. 

I have one misunderstanding at the lower part of picture where another kind of reinforcement shown. Is it another way of reinforcement beams-deck joint or additional? If it is additional, where first and second should meet each other.

And what about "tapered hardwood block" shown in the opposite sides of reiforcement platform? What should be on the beam's side cutted off to fit these "tapered blocks"?

Please help me to get clear with this.

Regards,

Andriy

PS. How do you think is it necessary to buy  "Design Improvement Package 2 - for Classic Designs" or i can draw or find all plans somewhere here on forum?