galvanized rigging

[never u mind]

hi guys . hope you can help me . ive got rust showing on my gal standing rigging. ive heard that if theres rust its time to change it, but its only five years old. this boat is new to me so im not responsible for not oiling it. as its only surface rust im hoping i can salvage it. also , the boat has aluminium masts and i was wondering if this combination may cause electrolisis. thanks guys ,any help would be apreciated.

[Budget Boater]

I would not trust the galvanized rigging if you plan to go off shore with your boat. Plan on changing it.

The galvanized rigging will only cause a problem with the aluminum masts if the two are touching each other (through some form of metal-to-metal contact.)

[George Ray]

Have galvanized rigging on an alum mast and have had no problems with either.
(1) Masts are awl grip painted and wire is parceled and served where it wraps the mast.
(2) Wire is 7x7 galvanized which is getting harder to find. 7x19 is to fine when corrosion is an issue. The 7x7 is more than flexible enough to wrap around dead-eyes, etc. The shrouds are parceled and served but I would not hesitate to use uncovered wire knowing the maintenance would increase. We do use CRS 316 wire on stays with sliding jib hanks.

[George Ray]

Steel is an easier beast to judge the quality of than is stainless.
(a) A very small amount of steel makes a large amount of rust so rusty steel is not generally beyond use but rather is only cosmetically impaired. An exception might be fine steel wire such as 7x19 were each strand can afford to lose only a little cross section before it's individual tensile strength is significantly diminished.
(b) The tendency to 'work harden' that many commonly used stainless alloys experience is troublesome. Put a 1/4" galvanized bolt in a vise and bend till it breaks and then do the same for a stainless bolt (304 or 316 alloy usually) and the general finding is that the steel remains stronger much longer while being deformed/flexed/bent.
(c) Crevice corrosion and the like make stainless difficult to judge after years of service. When is it time to retire it and what parts can still be used? Plain steel is more along the lines of 'If it looks good it is good'. Not too difficult to judge.

[never u mind]

thanks for your input so far guys. it looks like i may change the the rigging soon. imthinking of serving then parceling with plastic tube(hose). im thinking of fitting tube after the rigging is standing by sliceing the tube open and then wrapping around the stay. i vaguely remember reading somewhere that served gal needs to breathe, if so i can use smaller internal diameter tube than rigging which will give me a slot all the way down the stay which i can rotate regularly and even top up with the good oil. i dont know if im on the right track here so if anyone can help i would love to get your opinions. thanks again guys.

[George Ray]

Traditional (Slush, Worm, Parcel, Serve) encapsulates the wire and stories abound of 100yr old steel/iron standing rigging being stripped and looking brand new.
"worm and parcel with the lay; turn and serve the other way"

Slush: Soak/paint the wire and use slush in every step there after.
(a) Old fashioned is pine tar, linseed, varnish, japan drier (Brion Toss formula: six parts Stockholm Tar three parts considerably boiled Linseed Oil one part Japan Drier one part Spar Vanrish)
(b) New is to use the net dip that fisherman treat their gear with.
(c) Any thing to soak in and turn to gel will work.

Worm: soak w/ slush
Fills the valley between strands with small string to round out the wire so the serving will not leave a hollow for moisture to travel in . Not used for wire under about 7/16 - 1/2". I did not use for 3/8" 7x7 wire.

Parcel: paint w/ slush
(a) Large wire: Strips of cloth wrapping the slushed wire and worming and painted with slush
(b) Small wire: black electrical friction tape

Serve: final wrap to cover/seal/protect and is slushed/painted to protect
(a) Old: tarred marline wrapped 'tightly' and painted with slush
(b) New: Tarred nylon net/seine twine ( think I used #36, about 3/32"+ dia)

Properly done and painted to protect the wrapping the lifetime is not limited.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm,_parcel_and_serve

Ask rigging questions on Brion Toss forum for The Definitive Answer
http://www.briontoss.com/spartalk/

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Pictures of my attempts to do these things:
http://picasaweb.google.com/georgelewisray/GeorgeSProjects#

[never u mind]

thanks george. what a great reply. i loved your photos , if you have any more please post them. i obviously have my terms mixed up but at least you were smart enough to know what i was trying to say. the brian toss site is pure gold, thank you.

[George Ray]

Between this 'SquareRiggger' website linked below, the 'SquareRigger' photo tutorial on Flickr and Brion Toss's web site/forum/book(s) there is not much more to know.
When I started all I had was Brion's book "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice". Very much a Bible of rigging.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Riggers-Apprentice-Techniques-Tradit...
Read some of the reviews on Amazon.

The work of Jamie White "The SquareRigger" is a wonderful addition to that Brion Toss.
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http://www.thesquarerigger.com/worm_parcel-and_serve.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/squarerigger/sets/72157594528393721/