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I'm realizing that the tabernacle design for my tiki 30 is going to have major shortcomings. I've built the pod version and it prevents the mast being lowered aft .I suppose you simply leave the forward panel of the tabernacle off and open to allow the mast to be raised and lowered forward . Thinking along these lines I find myself questioning why I even need a Tabernacle. Of course it's handy for arranging the halyard  clutches on,BUT wouldn't a aluminum mast step solidly attached to the beam be just as good?

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I have the solution you suggest. We always use a crane to lower and raise the mast, so no problem. If you want to raise the mast yourself you need the tabernacle. You can also build the tabernacle yourself from wood (or metal), which goes along with the Wharram philosophy. Originally our boat had a tabernacle, and the mast fixed to it with a large bolt about 50cm up from the base. When I changed the mast I got rid of the tabernacle. I don't think there is any difference apart from this. The tabernacle does give the added feeling that the mast is attached to the boat, rather than just standing on the beam and held by its weight and the shrouds...!

I had a tabernacle but swapped to a plate when someone gave me the plans to make an aluminium mast on a Tiki 26.  I had the plate fabricated.  It lowers the mast aft but I suppose it could be changed to lower forward.  Pictures attached.

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Thanks for your input Jerry your mast step looks good and strong, I will try something similar.

If I remember correctly, the mast step and tabernacle were designed for the mast to be raised/lowered forward. At least that is how it did it on my T30. The plate on the front was simply through bolted and removable as needed. I do not remember even considering to raise/lower the mast aft.

Hello budget boater my plans number 150 shows the mast raised and lowered  aft- looks like we have established  that it can go the other way just as well-. Now all I need is a mast to raise --an aluminum extrusion  5 inches round by 30 feet long I wonder if you could tell me where I might get  one of these things. My plans are for a wooden mast and they use shroud Loops I'm wondering if the SS metal  would cause chafe against the aluminum mast. Maybe conventional tangs would be a better way of attaching the shrouds and headstay, I wonder if you could use rope to loop around the mast leading to stainless steel shrouds ?     what youtink  ?   thanks

What you are looking for is schedule 10 5" aluminum tube 6061-T6. Some places call it pipe. It is extensively available in places where irrigation pipes are used in farming. However, it usually only comes in 20' lengths, so two pieces will need to be sleeved together. Where? That is the question of the decade since shipping is quite expensive. Maybe you can piggy back a couple on another load.

I used 1/4"  thick x 1.5" aluminum strap, bent and welded to the mast for shroud loop supports. The SS rigging loops are supposed to be sleeved in reinforced water hose, which is what I did. No chafing.

Attached are plans for a Tiki 26 5 inch diameter aluminium mast.  They were given to me by an old friend and do not know where he came by them. I cannot remember the wall thickness of the tube but in Europe it comes in 5 or 6m lengths and as Budget Boater says needs to be sleeved together.  My mast is 8m and the spare used for the inner sleeves.  There is also attached a second option for the mast base which I did not use but would be more robust for self raising.

The plans are not detailed and have my scrawling all over so some interpretation is needed.  The mast base was slightly changed as per the photograph I posted earlier.  I also added a 4 inch inner sleeve at the top and base for strength.  This will require a change to the step.

If I did it again I would - 1. Prime with acid etch primer to properly bond the top coat (tube is not anodised). 2. Use the smallest possible external cleat for the jib halyard as it catches the wingsail when lowering. 3. Possibly reconsider the mast rake. Mine is 4 degrees and without a tabernacle there is no way to adjust it without taking another slice off the base. 4. Strengthen the aluminium mast plate used for the base pin.  When raising it bends slightly and needs hammering back.  Usually I fit the mast with a crane anyway. Otherwise it all works well.

Attachments:



Jerry S said:

I had a tabernacle but swapped to a plate when someone gave me the plans to make an aluminium mast on a Tiki 26.  I had the plate fabricated.  It lowers the mast aft but I suppose it could be changed to lower forward.  Pictures attached.



Jerry S said:

Attached are plans for a Tiki 26 5 inch diameter aluminium mast.  They were given to me by an old friend and do not know where he came by them. I cannot remember the wall thickness of the tube but in Europe it comes in 5 or 6m lengths and as Budget Boater says needs to be sleeved together.  My mast is 8m and the spare used for the inner sleeves.  There is also attached a second option for the mast base which I did not use but would be more robust for self raising.

The plans are not detailed and have my scrawling all over so some interpretation is needed.  The mast base was slightly changed as per the photograph I posted earlier.  I also added a 4 inch inner sleeve at the top and base for strength.  This will require a change to the step.

If I did it again I would - 1. Prime with acid etch primer to properly bond the top coat (tube is not anodised). 2. Use the smallest possible external cleat for the jib halyard as it catches the wingsail when lowering. 3. Possibly reconsider the mast rake. Mine is 4 degrees and without a tabernacle there is no way to adjust it without taking another slice off the base. 4. Strengthen the aluminium mast plate used for the base pin.  When raising it bends slightly and needs hammering back.  Usually I fit the mast with a crane anyway. Otherwise it all works well.


Jerry these plans for the mast are excellent just what the doctor ordered thank you so much I like the masthead fitting

John,

Are we gonna splash that boat this summer when we come up?   It's about time for that sorta party...   I want a ride please.

Ann and Nev 

John,  It is a pleasure.  Just found some more information. The wall thickness of my mast tube is 3.25mm. For some reason I remember this being an important (minimum?) figure and your mast will be slightly longer. That is probably what Budget Boater said but my imperial-metric conversion ability is rubbish.  

john james said:


Jerry these plans for the mast are excellent just what the doctor ordered thank you so much I like the masthead fitting

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