Rigging loads for T38

[Jamie Rohan]

Hi all,

I am about to commit to a Dynex Dux rig for my Tiki 38 but I want to be sure about sizing.

Can anyone tell me the design loads for the standard Wharram rig for this boat (that is crab claw soft wing schooner)???

Thanks

[Ann and Neville Clement]

The reason Peace had trouble with her forestay was that we hired a rigger to assist us in order to save time. He fashioned a loop to go around the foremast at the top but he used galvinated wire and a choke and that is clearly improper. As I say, we were in a rush to get out of British waters while the insurance was available to do so (ie before autumn gales began). The rigger's loop broke when we were doing 9 knots to windward all up in strong wind off Cape Charles and it broke with a loud BANG and left the mast held up by only the halyard and the shrouds which gave side support only. The mast was held by the mast case while Nev lowered the fore sail and I rolled up the jib and we were grateful both sails came down so easy. We turned back to Norfolk and Nev made a temporary fix until we could remove the mast, make up a new stainless steel loop, repair both mast and mast case, and have everything strong and proper. I think there is no fault now. We have roller furling and the furling equipment came with that forestay.
Our halyards go along the aft side of the masts to clutches located there. We have rope lacings on our sails and like them very much for their easy up and easy down action. I do think the wrap around sails give a lovely shape, but easy is more important to us than speed at our age. But saying that, we did 15.5 knots sustained with only the main and fore sails up recently with a quartering 25 knot wind, and that is fast enough for the likes of us.
Safety is important to us, and so is easy, and speed comes after that.
Ann and Nev

[Ann and Neville Clement]

HI, On Peace we have the little wooden cleats (hooks) at the tops of the masts extra fastened with small threaded rod thru fastened to the opposite cleat and glued with epoxy and also recently filleted by me for extra security because it comforts me in stormy weather. If you have anything running through the inside of the mast, you must provide chafe gear against damage from the threaded rod such as a plastic water pipe pipe for wires etc. Ann and Nev

Jamie Rohan said:

Oh and another question for those patient souls that have built their T38's, or have access to plans!. Can someone describe for me how the mast shroud "cleats" are constructed. These little bitty hooks at the top of the mast which the shrouds loops hook around. Do they have a thru bolt or something other than epoxy holding them on?

[Jamie Rohan]

Hi Ann and Nev.
Would you have a photo of the SS mast band that your f'stay attaches to? This sounds like a great idea.

Thanks all, for ur info

[boatsmith]

The standard rig for the Tiki 38 is a schooner with gaff luff pocket wing sails. The crab claw is an entirely different rig. You can use 6mm Dynex Dux as far as working load goes. I prefer to go with a larger diameter. This allows for creep to be less of an issue and also provides more reserve strength and is easier on the hands. We have been very happy with the Dynex on our Tiki 30. I also like to use the spectra line for the deadeye lanyards and the beam lashing frappings as it is very slippery and enables much tighter lashings. David

[Jamie Rohan]

Hey David, which deadeye fittings did you go with? I've been looking at the Colligo and Precourt options. I like the precourt SS chainplate fitting. I was a little concerned about electrolytic deterioration with the alloy fittings on my SS chainplate. They are too expensive not to be concerned about longevity!

So you found that spectra was "slipperier" than the dux? Any concerns about load ratings with spectra?

Jamie

[boatsmith]

Jamie,
I went with Coliggo. I found them to be much more responsive than Precourt. John Franta at Coliggo has been very helpful.
Dynex Dux is spectra that has been prestreched according to my understanding. David

[Björn]

Hi Jamie,

Nice pictures, I spotted some good mods on the rigging indicating that you know a bit about boats. How is the main sail traveller working out. After seeing it I am wondering why I had not the idea myself:-)

If you are interested I have digitised all relevant construction details.

Regards Björn

[Jamie Rohan]

Hi Bjorn, thanks, yes the traveller works well. Certainly adequate to get a nice shape on the sail, and get all those telltails streaming. The "traveller rope" (track) is anchored around the beam ends with 1" tubular webbing. I also use 1" web for my headsal blocks. So far the only rot i've had in the boat is where the headsal tracks where mounted on the beam, so I got rid of them and their nasty little screw holes, and just use webbing around the beam.
I've added a couple more pics which show better the traveller arrangement.
And also sent you message regarding your offer!


Björn said:

Hi Jamie,

Nice pictures, I spotted some good mods on the rigging indicating that you know a bit about boats. How is the main sail traveller working out. After seeing it I am wondering why I had not the idea myself:-)

If you are interested I have digitised all relevant construction details.

Regards Björn

[Ann and Neville Clement]

It is not a stainless steel mast band. The wooden cleats are through fastened through the wooden mast so the port side cleat and starboard side cleat are thru fastened to each other. Ann and Nev

Jamie Rohan said:

Hi Ann and Nev.
Would you have a photo of the SS mast band that your f'stay attaches to? This sounds like a great idea.

Thanks all, for ur info

[Jamie Rohan]

Hi All,

Just thought I'd make an update my rigging on my T38.
Since my last post I have replaced all my shrouds with 7mm Dynex Dux. I purchased the Dux from Hampidjan in New Zealand, whom offered the best price (considering exchange rates), and the fittings came from Colligo. I found the brummel splicing a breeze with the help of the video tutorials on the Colligo website.
My wife and I have only had a two day sail in about 15kts so far, but i am very pleased with the rigs. I've been able to get some solid tension by using a halyard down to the tail of the lashings.
We live in Brunei, SE Asia, where there are "NO" supplies for yachties, and trying to get 1x19SS flown in, and then find someone to hydraulically swage seemed impossible. Hence one of the many reasons we went with DUX. It was completely DIY!
I will be replacing the forestay with SS when I get a chance, since i've got the roller furler. However, I will be modifying it so that has a thimble at the top, which will shackle to a DUX loop that goes around the mast. This should remove the risk of the SS loop fatiguing. There's a pic of my new shrouds on the website.
Thanks to all those that offered advice about this type of rigging.

[Björn]

why don´t you use Norseman or Stalock terminals? They are expensive but you can do them yourself and the can be reused.