A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
Bjorn, thanks for the drawings and photos. Great looking arrangement, though it may not work for a Tiki 26 since mast beam is really not suited to build up such a tall tabernacle. Perfect for the 38 though.
Jacques, the wood steps look great too. I'm still deciding on how I will do the foot on mine, though I plan to copy Kim's ideas on the mast head.
Merci my friend, but he sold them all over two years ago. Wood solution...no problem
This is a long Story. The tubes come from Canada. Contact Martin Hivon (from this site), he is the one who knows the source, Canada being #1 in aluminum.
Martin did a great job gathering 4 Tiki38 builders (8 masts + 3 rear beams) in order to make a bulk and special order.
Maybe with your quantities, you will be able to do the same.
One mast is 50kg which is light.
Here is a picture of my mastfeet. Made of laminated oak, shaped with a grinder (dust!).
Rogerio Martin said:
Bjorn, Jaques, Where you buy your mast? the mast of T38 is like T30 diameter, but a little higher. In Brazil we don't produce in this diameter, only especial buys up 800kg alluminium (= 12 T38 masts). Mybe I buy in USA or Europe is more cheap. Can you help me. Here have 4 T30 in building...
I have a Tiki 38 and my front mast just fell to bits in a gale the other day.
it was fir fibreglasses. The crane had let in water and it just rotted at the hounds.
I am going to go for aluminium to replace the old one.
I think I need 150x3mm T6. Is this correct, and how long?
Cheers, Dave English
The outer dimensions of the masts stay exactly the same as the wooden ones, wall thickness (if I recall correctly) is 3,5 to 4 mm in aluminium. I think Hanneke made a statement about this somewhere here in the forum. (My masts are too far away for me to measure at the moment)
I have ordered a length of 152x3.5mm T5.
I would have preferred T6 but they wanted a 250kg production run to make it happen.
I have just made stainless fittings for my alloy mainmast, then will follow with fittings for the mizzen.
Strangely, but naturally one hopes, my fittings resemble the ones in the original post of this thread.
I'd like to give some experience on the drilling of the stainless A4/316 which may help neophytes on this demanding stuff to work with, me being one, since I've in the past had fabricators making my ss stuff (can't afford them now I'm "retired"):
1) Drill bits: cobalt alloy, typically 5 % cobalt, cobalt coated ones are no good. Irwin make a decent set up to 10mm dia at a reasonable price. Bigger than (ie 12.5mm) that I have bought from engineering suppliers, not, *NOT* from merchants like Screwfix (UK). I use them in step-ups of around 2 or 3 mm dia, ie multiple drillings.
2) Drill. My pillar drill, was my dear old man's, he's been gone since 1981 but he's still with me when I use his tools, I keep it for sentiment, is only half an horsepower, half-arsed, but ok up to 4mm dia with cobalt bits. Above 4mm I use a Bosch portable electric drill designed for core drilling. Incredible torque, which indicates danger ! to your wrists....you have been warned.
3) Setting up. My stuff is 3mm plate. I drill it before bending (use a soft- headed hammer) it, so it's flat. I clamp it with speed clamps onto a flat low trestle, such that I use for woodwork. I have used these board trestles/sawstools for years, incredibly versatile, you can make them from from board scrap. You clamp to them. You hardly ever need a vice. It has a flat board top, designed for clamping to. Beam sawstools are only good for laying boards on to eat your lunch off...
4) You have clamped your plate ss over a piece of 25mm thick wood..
5) You need this wood. It helps buffer the shock of the exit of the drill bit from the steel. That's to stop the drill breaking your wrists...with the clamps also buffering. You can shove the bit straight through and you need to.
6) You crank up your drill, you are leaning over the piece, so much better than on a bench, you have CONTROL.
You make sure your drill is going at max revs for an average bit, before it enters the steel
7) But already you have LUBRICATED the hole/drill bit with oil or coolant. I use oil left over from oil changes on my car.
8) You get that bit at its correct speed into the piece and YOU KEEP IT GOING, hard
9) Because if you don't , it will work- harden and you will have one hell of a job to finish that or get the damn bit in or out or anywhere.
10) Happy drilling!