A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
After almost 14 years of sweat, blood and tears I finally have my boat (well, almost. Not in the water yet..). For the last 2 weeks I run a painting marathon which will hopefully be over next weekend when the launching day is set. I have a couple of questions concerning the rig. To start with, do I have to put some rubber between the mast foot and the mast base when I step up the masts? There is no such indication in the plans but, well, it won’t be the first time something is unclear. Also I was wondering how can I tension the shrouds and how much tension in enough. I didn’t use the original design for the shroud bases. Instead I manufactured stainless steel shroud plates. Any comments are welcome.
Manos - congratulations! What a boat- it indeed looks beautiful. There is no rubber in mine, but it would not hurt I believe putting some - others may comment as well. I used pre stretched rope to attach the shrouds to the wooden plates. You need to tighten the wires on both sides using a small stick to progressively tighten the ropes attached to the wires, going one side and the other so as for them to be perpendicular as seen from the bows. The details are in the plans. You will also need to see from the sides that the masts are parallel to each other as you tighten. A frame in a boat yard seems essential to start - other might have other ideas. Send photos of how you have set yours and can tell you more. I will look for some photos I took of a steering wheel assembly - this is very handy to steer from the cockpits - or in your case, from theentral deck- where you are much more protected. How did you sort out the covering of the cockpits? Do you have 3 separate cabins/spaces on each side, or do you have a flush space? Any photos welcome.
Best wishes your way, and congratulations again for a beautiful boat! Hope to sail it one day, or with you in Cornwall!
Hello Jose. It seems unbelievable after so many years of building that I now have to worry about things like anchorage safety or sailing set up but also make plans for nearby sailing trips or more distant voyages! I didn’t put rubber also under the mast foots. I tightened the wires by hand progressively on both sides as you advise but I think they need more. Is there a way to say its enough? In each hull there are three separate compartments. To the bow and stern two cabins on each side and the central compartments are dedicated to galley on the port side and toilet on the starboard side. As I was trying to get the boat in the water before summer ends I left the details of the interiors unfinished to some degree. I will send photos soon. Some photos of a steering wheel configuration would be very helpful as I intend to build some kind of steering wheel or tiller (like the whip staff in the plans) to steer from the central deck pod.
Fair winds to you too!
Manos - interesting - my cockpits have dual use, and they serve the same purposes. albeit on opposite sides. Below the port cockpit floor hatches there tis a toilet; and opposite side, a kitchen / dining table. There are waking water basins and pumps in the deck boxes. I gather you would not have need for dual purposes. Is there (almost) standing room on the central spaces on yours? On mine, the steering wheel is installed on a wooden beam structure attached to the side of the boxes towards the end, so you can steer from inside the cockpits, or standing outside. You might be able to put yours there, or by the 3rd beam. I have not had luck with the various whip staff arrangements I have tried, They serve when you are out, already committed to a route, but rather useless when at close quarters, for tacking or need substantial changes of direction The shroud must be Very tight. Almost as a musical instrument. It is no good if you can extend the shrouds if you pull them . I left mine a bit loose in the mizzen afte r recent revarnishing and when out at sea the mast end up moving all places - had to drop sail and return. I could have lost the mast.Better quite tight. Will look for the photos and come back. Best wishes over there,
Hello- ref wheel steering, I have completed mine on my Tiki 31 but have not been able to sail this season as planned due to Covid restrictions earlier on so it is untested on the water. It comprises an open oak frame which clamps between the seats of the starboard cockpit. I have no deckboxes as I found them a trip hazard on a 31 I sailed before building mine. On this frame is the drum box which has an easily accessible wood drum on s/s ball bearing races on a bronze shaft as I have described before on here. The wheel is about 30" diameter (ply disc with solid elm rim) and it takes about 3.4 turns to go lock to lock. I can set up and dismantle the whole thing in a few minutes in the cockpit. and stow it if required. It has a very direct and sensitive feel to the rudders and doesn't weigh much, all of it is less than 18kg. It has dyneema line. I don't know yet whether or not the dyneema will slip but I have tried it under pressure and it seems ok. It took a lot of thought to design and there is very little suitable info I could find online. Sometimes I have fantasized of sending a bill to Wharrams for my time, since the boat is not much fun to steer in very bad conditions from the tiller bar and the whipstaff never worked for anyone. I will post a photo or two when it is tested at sea. Cheers, Ian