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Was just wondering if this is the best solution . Was concerned that the lashing crosses the loop in the bowline and could cut through with friction

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G'day Patrick. I am Gerry on big tane. Please look at my profile as i have to do an rebuild on my tanenui 28. I do not think there would be an problem if the beams where rounded off at the eages as what i will be doing on my boat. I think you may just need to round off where the lashings go and that will minimze the whearing off the lashings. Changeing the rope to spcetra witch is a low streach and whear as well as high strength will allso help preserving the lashings longer. I would allso after the loop go aroud 3 or 4 times then take the line through an figer 8, much like an spanish wind lass and thighten after each loop has passed around then tie off. I think that will work well as a freind of mine did on his tiki 21. I hope this will help you out
Gerry on big tane.

I do the same method on my Tiki 21 with no issues at all. I did some extra rounding off and built up with extra epoxy and silica where the lashings go around the top part of beam. I have pre-stretched super low stretch line for lashings and frap with dyneema. once I have four wraps of dyneema I tie end in a clove hitch to a screwdriver and pull the shit out of it. With this the lashings are extremely tight. If using low stretch line, lashing with the line wet makes it a little more stretchy and then it tightens up well when it dries. 

Thanks Brad and Garry . It is a bit of work to resend and re coat the beams perhaps I could put leather or rubber under the lashings to increase the radius and stop friction. Cheers

KC and Troy built hardwood pads for on top of the beams with a groove in the middle where the line goes over. That would be much easier than messing with the beams!

I've just cut 25mm conduit to put under the lashings where they cross the radius of the beam edges.

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