A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
This site popped up on my Facebook and thought it might be useful for anyone considering a deck tent / canopy. looks like they would be nice for the smaller boats. Looks a little pricey but I'm sure their designs could give inspiration for anyone…Continue
Started Feb 23, 2017
Might be of interest for someone with deep pockets. This brand new Islander 55 for sale in Langkawi.http://www.langkawibss.com/yacht/wharram-islander-55-honu-moana/Continue
Started Oct 24, 2016
A good youtube video about anchor tests.Hope you all find it as interesting as i did.Martyhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0Continue
Started this discussion. Last reply by Brett Parker Aug 15, 2016.
Saw this if anyones interested.. …Continue
Started Jul 12, 2015
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Added by Marty Peters
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Comment Wall (8 comments)
As I'm not yet ready to complete the blog building of my Tiki46 with at first the installation of the diesel engines in the hulls, in waiting I prefer to post a few pics of the cabin although its accommodations are not yet made.
I think it's possible to have so a longer pod as mine with a saloon, a kitchen and a map table with the classical shooner Tiki rig. The only problem is to support the mast you have to keep the central beam ( I have no central beam), so you should have a different accommodation with the presence of the support for the mast.
Hoping you'll join the Tiki46 owners family soon.
We installed the two Yamaha 20 horse outboards this spring and they have been wonderful. The boat is lots easier to control when entering crowded anchorages and can more easily stem a foul tide etc. There has been no problem with cavitation and they are quieter than the old 9.9s. I especially like the button on the control that I push to tilt them rather than hauling them up. Nev's arms are longer than mine and it was always a strain reaching for the catch and tilting the 9.9s manually. Not much difference in the weight or fuel consumption. All the best, Ann and Nev
We were launched in 2002 and we have never had a life raft aboard, nor were we informed that one was needed. Nev will check on the measured length in the materials we have from SSR and we will get back to you in the next few days. We are on grandparent duty currently with a delightful 6 year old, so are not aboard.
The boat has so many water tight compartments, and it has no lead keel, so it cannot just sink. The crossbeams will be floating for sure. In my old monohull, I was offshore when the stuffing box slid forward so I know what it is like to be alone aboard, out of sight of land, and bailing with a bucket. On that boat, a life raft was essential because the person with the bucket gets tired, but the lead keel just keeps pulling down and down and down. But your lovely new Tiki 46 does not have that problem. In Peace, we have the floatation compartments filled with empty soda pop bottles with the tops screwed on full of good clean air. Maybe other folks would be able to give different advices to you. We are unlikely to ever have a life raft aboard.
Ann and Nev
Hanneke will have all of the info you need. They have been battling the EU requirements for decades. firstname.lastname@example.org will get you the office and Liz will most likely have the answer to all the questions re life rafts.
Wharrams are just a better idea altogether. Ann and Nev
Tell me your troubles with your forward mast case. That is the part of the boat that has caused us trouble twice in our 50,000 miles of sailing but the good news is that no other part of the boat has given us trouble. These are easy fixes I will tell you about and one is not likely to be needed right away.
It looks like you bought a Tiki 46 and did a fantastic restoration job and now have a beautiful boat. Did I read right? If you have them, I would adore to have pics of the inside and also details of the problem with the forward mast case problem now.
I think you will be up and sailing again pronto with the fix-it job I give you now.
All the best, Ann
My problem is a small one I think and we are half way to resolving it. I will try to post a pic to this thread .
So the small cracking is at the join of the mast case to the cheeks of the bowsprit where the mast box is joined to the bowsprit plank. There are two vertical cracks at the join of the box section and the inner anchor roller cheeks. I think it is caused by the bowsprit flexing and the box section not flexing thus putting all of the stress on an epoxy joint. The joint is heavily glassed but I think the lever arm is too much once the bridle lashings stretch. Looking at it in my problem solving mode, that whole area is where the outer bowsprit attaches to the mast box and it looks obvious that its a week point due to a stiff section joining a flexible section.
Our remedy is to glue and bolt a 1.3m long hard wood plank that is 50mm thick and the width of the bowsprit plank. It is going to run from the mast to forward of the anchor rollers. There will be 8 bolts, 4 forward and 4 astern of the problem area. I will then glass the new plank for weather protection...That should stop the flexing of the bowsprit at the critical area. Basically I think the epoxy join is just not flexible enough to withstand the very slight flexing of the outer bowsprit as it is at exactly at the pivot point of the rigid mast case and the flexible bowsprit.
I wish I had seen the threads where you describe your issues before now but I was busy building and not reading. My plan is No 19 and there isn't a big doubler shown on the plan and I built it exactly to the plan that I have. It never occurred to me there may have been a revision. The original builder launched in sept 2001 I think so she must have been one of the first tiki 46's to get wet... Oh well my first on water repair!!
The only other issues so far have been a very creaky lashing on my port aft beam No5...Of course this happens to be my cabin and it sounds horrendous.... But that is the next job after the bowsprit. And some very minor cracking on the stern ramp and again is caused by the ramp twisting and flexing more than the epoxy joints can handle... This doesn't worry me at all.....
Other than this the boat is fantastic and I am super happy... Top speed so far is 14 kts and she just purrs along at 10 knots straight downwind with only the spinnaker in 25 true/15 kts apparent, What I am seeing is that boat speed is around 50-70 % of apparent downwind and around 30-40% of apparent when beating, but we have had relatively light winds whilst going upwind and have been taking it easy since seeing the cracking.
We have currently covered around 1000 miles from st Francis bay in South Africa and we are now in luderitz Namibia and as soon as we are ready we are heading to st Helena and then brazil... I can't wait for warm weather and we have been ticking off the degrees as we head north.
I will of course be adding lots of pictures but I just haven't had time lately to get online and post due to the unavailability of a reliable Internet connection and the pressures / stress of dodging the bad weather whilst getting out of South Africa... It's been a great experience in South Africa but as any sailor will tell you this part of the world can be punishing if you get caught out... Only a few days ago they were reporting 50-60 knts in Cape Town, boy am I glad to be 500-600 miles north and getting into the trades...
Thanks for your quick reply and I appreciate any advice you can give....
You have already done just right. The thick plank running from the mast to forward of the rollers for the anchrs will solve the problem nicely, I am sure. Nev and I discovered our similar cracks in exactly the same place and we were in urgent need to cross Biscay on our maiden sail ahead of an insurance deadline (stupid insurance companies!). Nev had to do a "temporary fix" right away but it worked so well, it is still there and has merely been improved by use of stainless rather than mild steel. It works and Hanneke and James have seen it and approved it so that is all that matters - be safe and keep sailing - in my book. What you have done looks better though. And we will do the same one day. The newer plans have the second plank under the long plank and that looks even better but I think your way works best because:
The added benefit for what you have done is that the mast cannot "walk" forward over that blockading secondary plank of wood you have in front of the mast. During our maiden voyage on the way to Madiera during our trans Atlantic, I noticed that the shrouds had suddenly gone relaxed and the dead eyes were kind of dancing around in a heavy sea way. Nev thought the lanyards were stretching as had happened earlier and so he and our friend (with us because of insurance requirements) started to tighten them up. But I went to examie everything connected to the mast and found that the base of the mast had walked forward. So the guys got out a small 5 ton hydraulic jack and pushed the mast back into place at the bottom using the bollard for the bottom of the jack and the mast for the top. This was maybe rude, but it was also effective. Then the guys got that rough piece of teak I had pulled out of a dumpster and they screwed it to the plank. When we arrived in Madiera, a nice man took our lines and complimented us on the pretty new Wharram and offered us free chunks of hardwood from the carpentry shop next door to his house. WE shaped one up and Nev bolted it in place. Then we all looked at the main mast and did the same to it. I believe the plans now have better mast base design so that is not a problem any more. I believe Hanneke has written to the first builders to tell them of the change. So just put a block in front of the main mast and yu can bolt it through the pod mast case as we did. Works fine. We wrote in about this so the info is somewhere here on the web. Our chunks of teak are about 4 inches by 4 inches by 6 inches and have four long through bolts with large washers. The rest of our voyage went uneventually with only Nev and me aboard. The main lesson learned is to keep looking around your boat as you sail and when something looks wrong, look all around for the cause and do not just assume your first guess is correct.
New production boats and newly launched home built boats, both need to be made more cooperative by their first owners. We call this process "taming the wild cat" and probably we should write a complete discussion about this as we experienced it on Peace IV during our 50,000 miles at sea. We had a lot of stuff that was quick and easy to do and made the boat LOTS easier to handle. Because we are old folks, and still sail offshore, we just had to do something to make things easier for ourselves. Kind of geriactric sailing modifications! WE are still out there and the boat is still wonderful and you will be doing something like this with your new boat. Never get discouraged because these boats are truly worth it and I have had very well though of production boats in the past and know that there are problems with them also. I had a Shannon monohull and they are like the best possible kind of monohull and that boat also had problems. I put 25,000 on her including a solo trans Atlantic but by the time I sailed her across the ocean, she was much better behaved. And on the return trip, Nev was aboard and he did a whole lot more. Boat
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