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I need an advice...

can I wait another year?

Should I change them?

The problem is that the has blokked everything and I think the only solution is to drill them .

Epoxy was not enough?

The engine is now hanging here. Should I move it? Why?

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Re the rusted bolt heads: if you don't take them out (no need if it is just the bolt head):
Wire brush the bolt heads to remove any loose rust, apply the rust treatment, and then paint. Works pretty good.
you think the only problem is in bolt heads?
Are the bolt heads solid or coming apart? If they are solid, with surface rust, imho, I would not remove them. Stainless is often referred to as "stain Less." If the heads are crumbling all the way back to the shafts, that is another story!
to paraphrase an old sailing adage "If you think they might need changing, change them."

It might be a hard job, but new bolts wouldn't be expensive whereas the peace of mind is priceless.
Everything looks like in great condition, but you know...maybe it is a paranoia but I'm always thinking my boat is not solid enough and a wave could smash everything. The bolts looks like rusted, but not "rotten". I reallly don't know How the rust can compromise the resistance of the steel

A good epoxy bond is very strong in itself; the bolts are basically insurance against a poor epoxy bond. That's a good attitude to take though! A good appraisal of your boat's seaworthiness should come from it. How long have you been sailing this boat?

Re your outboard position: as long as it lifts clear of the water when sailing, it will be fine.
We sailed a 50 days cruise in the mediteranean sea last summer and that's it. I was really happy. I did not buid tomtom I've just restored it. I checked every detaill and appllied epoxy where neccessary, but I have not a big experience...

about the engine somebody told me it is a better idea to move it from where it is now,
but I was wondering if it colud work anyway this way...
No problem while sailing

Adriano, if you are concerned about the boat's seaworthiness, have it surveyed by a qualifed Marine Surveyor. It's not cheap - prices for a survey vary from $400-$2000 here in Australia - but you receive a detailed report on the condition of every system on your boat and will know exactly what needs attention. It is professional advice and well worth the cost. The survey report also adds to the boat's value if you wish to sell it.

Becoming proficient in epoxy is not difficult if you start with the proper instruction. I highly recommend the booklet "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance" by the Gougeon Brothers, the makers of West System epoxy products. (ISBN 1-878207-22-9) the booklet is only 76 pages but tells you everything you need to know about using epoxy around your boat. It has excellent illustrations.

Replace those rusted bolts. If the bits you can see look nasty, guaranteed they are worse inside where you can't see. You may also have rot cooking under the washers or in the bolt holes. Replacing the bolts gives you an excellent opportunity to do some sealing and painting in places you never attend to and to renew the silicon (or whatever sealant you use) under the washers.

having the motor so far aft can be a problem in steep choppy seas. The prop will tend to suck air from the surface (ventilation), lose grip on the water causing the engine to over-rev and then labour as it regains grip. Obviously this is not good for the engine long-term and you lose power and waste fuel. However, this may not be an issue for you if where you sail rarely has steep seas. Here, within the Great Barrier Reef, where the seas never have a chance to lengthen during a blow, a ventilating prop is a pain when the wind drops out and you really want to motor the last few miles into harbour.
HMM you make me think, but with $400-$2000 I can do a lot of work on my tiki. I've no doubt about the seaworthiness of my boat. I Know is a paranoia, but I'm not a professionist and I would like to know if I'm worried about details or important things. I'm sailing with my family (my girlfriend and two children: 9 y.o. and 1y.o. next summer). During our last cruise I checked 1000 times every details even if we've never sailed in rough condition. Lashing and wood make a lot of noise, my girlfriend was pregnant and it was me who apllied epoxy, you know...sometimes I was in a big confusion, anyway we had great time and it was a great holiday.
I read a lot about epoxy and I'm pretty sure I've done a good job, anyway I'll substitute those ugly bolts if I have time. I just want to be sure the boat will not disasemble if I will not do it :)). I friend of mine told me to try with an elettrical soldering iron to remove the bolts. Makes sense(?)

about the engine...we had that kind of problem only in crowded spot with no wind , where motorboat caused steep choppy seas, it's incredible
I think hanging the engine on a sledge, the "classical way", will not solve this problem... above all I am worried about the torsion of the beam.

Outboard mounting can be tricky. Mounted too high and the prop will cavitate. Mount it too low and the motor will get doushed with salt water too often and die young. It will also be dragging too
much and limit your top speed. ith an aft mounted motor is
Wharrams pitch more than some boats, so the aft mounted motor will lose water more easily. Also the further towards the ends of the boat you add weight, the more she will pitch. This would make make the ideal location for the motor in the center of the boat. This does however limit the motors ability to be used to steer the boat. The further aft you place the motor the more effectively you can steer the boat under power by pivoting the motor.
I believe that the sleds are best mounted to the aft end of the cockpit. not the beam. Also it helps to have a long shaft motor. 20" minimum. I have a 25" on our Tiki 30. It is mounted right in the center of the boat. I rebuilt the Motor mount/box and raised it up 6" this summer as the old mount trashed one motor by getting it too wet,too often. The motor has not lost water , but it comes close so the height seems right and the motor stays much drier. I can't pivot my motor and steer with rudders only. Wharrams don't steer well in reverse and is a trait which must be kept in mind when maneuvering in restricted areas.
I believe that the sleds are best mounted to the aft end of the cockpit. not the beam.
Why not?
The beam has very short fore and aft mounting areas where it attaches. This does not provide very good leverage inherently to resist any torque forces. The cockpit spans the distance between the two beams and this is a much more stable transfer of energy.

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