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Ki Ora all,

I have a 38ft Tiki which was half finished by the previous owner. I need to install skin fitting for the heads and fresh water sump. The head out will be down water of any intake ; ) I was wondering if anyone had any advise on positioning or tips? 

Thank you, 

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above the waterline.only water intakes should be under the waterline. near the ttoilet to keep the hose run short . thru hull at an easily accessible location as you will need to remove the hose from time to time to remove the inevitable calcium build up 

Make sure the stopcocks protecting any openings below the waterline are of material that's not going to degrade.  I once accidentally fitted an ordinary brass one, thinking it was bronze.  A couple of years later it broke off in my hand, luckily we were alongside at the time.  The zinc content had gradually leached out, leaving a fragile copper honeycomb...

If the head itself is below the waterline, run the intake hose up high in a loop with a pin hole vent at the top, so that it can't form a syphon.  It's good practice to always turn the seacock off when it's not in use, but people forget.

Hi Robert, 

Thank you for your reply, all notes taken. The thing I cant get around is the placement of the fresh water tanks and if I should install a black tank? As you know there isnt much space beneath the floor. Where would you suggest placement of these? I have Blakes seacocks all ready to go. vbw, Justin

Freshwater tanks should be placed under the bunks in the main cabins.

The space,in liters, undert the floor is more then you might think.Measure,do your maths and let us know the results.

If your tanks need to be larger then the volume under the floor then you  can cut large holes in the floor ,add a bulkhead under the bed at the aft end ,make a lid and hey, presto you'vegot a large tank .We did this with our latest T 30 and it works very well. When desigining and building tanks do consider accessibility to tank's interior forr purposes of cleaning and inspection.Consider putting in a couple of baffles .Interor of the tanks should on all sides be glass/epoxied and painted with a suitable, i.e food grade, paint.Ifyou have large tanks and they are full you add  considerable  weight to the boat.On they other hand there is no one who says you always need to fill your tanks to the brim ,for short trips you can fill them onl partly to save weight .

Other possibilites for fresh water tanks are bladders,several manufacturers can supply bladder tanks made to measure.

Or ready made tanks in plastic or stainless.When choosing these types of tanks remember you might have to remove them on occasion for cleaning or repair .So they should be sized in such a way they can be removed from their place and fit through the entry hatch. So rather then having a single large tank in each hull you may have to put in two smaller ones .In which case plumbing gets a little more complicated . 

Blakes are good, just ensure they are well greased, and move them regularly.  Whether or not to have a black water tank depends largely on where you will be sailing.  If you'll be in confined waters then you probably do need one.  If you'll be coastal and offshore, maybe you don't.  If you don't have a black water tank you could carry a "Porta-Potty" type of toilet for the odd occasion you're somewhere that you need it.

Justin Langford said:

Hi Robert, 

Thank you for your reply, all notes taken. The thing I cant get around is the placement of the fresh water tanks and if I should install a black tank? As you know there isnt much space beneath the floor. Where would you suggest placement of these? I have Blakes seacocks all ready to go. vbw, Justin

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