Wharram Builders and Friends

A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts

Building of the Tiki 46 n°2 "GRAND PHA" Part 2

Building of GRAND PHA

Tiki 46 N°2   Part 2

Due to the limitation of the blogs, I can't put all the pictures and comments in one  part, so this second part will continue the description of the building of GRAND PHA from October 2010 until April 2012.

Look at the Part 1  from 1998 to September 2010  or at the Part 3  from May 2012 to her launch the 17th September 2012.    

October 2010 After the the hulls have received their top coats (Toplac), drawing of a curve to paint a part of the side hulls in red :

 Red line on the hull sides :

Making flat reinforcements, made of 3 layers of 12mm plywood to fix round hatches on the decks :

This part of the deck is not made of a sandwich foam, it is made of 3 layers of 10mm plywood to well spray the effort of  each mast. To don't weaken too much this part of the deck, I put a round hatch :

To reinforce the deck around the hatch hole, the thick flat reinforcement is glued around the hole with a lot of glue to compensate the curve of the deck :

 Ready to receive a round hatch :

 Round hatch in position on the deck and preparing to glue the rail toes :

Toe rails are glued on each side of the hull decks :

 Making the hand rails to glue on the sides of the pod roof :

The hand rails over the pod are made in order to collect the rain water, here glueing a plastic tube  to collect the water in each corner :

Details showing how the rain water is collected on the pod roof :

To stay demountable the flat reinforcement which hold the stern round hatch has to be adjusted at the deck curve with thick epoxy :

 Now an epoxy layer has been mould directly to the deck protected by an  adhesive tape, the reinforcement can be screwed on the deck with a silicone joint; in order to give the way later to a new engine if necessary :

The frame of the main hatches are made with plywood and hardwood :

the deck frame of the main hull hatch is completed :

November 2010 Hull painted with toe rails on the deck :

 Painting the pod :

December 2010 the hangar is under the snow :

January 2011 drilling holes to bolt the engines fixation of the engines :

The engines are well aligned with the shaft :

February 2011  wet locker ready to be glued in the pod :

Glueing the wet locker in the pod :

March 2011 in the pod the starboard seat with shelves :

In the pod the wet locker with the navigation table :

In the pod the large port seat to be use as bunk with large shelves and the kitchen :

April 2011 wood piece to fix the line steering on the rudders :

 How is fixed the line steering on each rudder :

View of the steering system with two chains, one to drive the rudders and the second to be driven by the electric engine:

 Electric motor steering  JEFA to drive the steering wheel with a FURUNO automatic pilot :

Details of the electric engine system which steers the boat :

The steering system works with only these two pulleys :

Over view of the steering system on the rudders :

May 2011 building of the main hatches rails :

 The rails are screwed through the deck :

 The main hatches are completed with their rails :

June 2011 The windows are bolted with Rubson glue over nylon washesr to keep a minimum of glue thickness when bolting :

Our grand children testing the pod open hatch in the front of the pod :

 Another grand child testing the hand windlass :

Looking at the anchors :

July 2011  Hard bimini building : the first layer is made of sheets of 5mm plywood :

To generate a light curve, laminated deck beams are made with 4 layers of 5mm veneer :

The deck beams and the longitudinal reinforcements (witch receive the support of the solar panels) are glued on the 5mm plywood sheets :

 20mm foam is glued between the reinforcements :

 Ready to receive a 600gm² glass cloth :

Hard bimini building  glassing the top side :

Glassing the bottom side :

Fixation of the bimini on the pod and on the back beam :

How the bimini is hold :

August 2011  preparing the place to bolt the mast foot on the keel :

The hull in reinforced to receive the masts :

View of the reinforcements made to hold the mast foot :

 A thick wood laminated is glued on the the reinforcements of the hull sides and keel :

 Finishing to reinforce the floor which will receive the mast foot :

Mast building : to increase the distance between the 2 masts they are implant outside of the centre hull line. Here preparation to cut the octagonal hole in each deck  hull :

 Making a template to make the holes for the masts in the deck hulls :

Cutting the holes in the decks which have a thickness of 30mm is this area :

Using the template to cut 6mm thick of reinforced rubber which will be put on the deck and on the floor :

The result is a  6mm rubber wash for the water proof and to shock the micro-movements of the hull and keel :

Glass cloth over the disks which will be glued to the masts on the deck level to bolt the masts through the deck :

Pieces which will be glued on the feet of the mast to bolt the mast foot through the keel floor :

Building of the masts

The masts are made in 2 stages : at first the bottom part from the foot until 1.7m above the deck. This part will be adjust to fit exactly to the deck curve and floor keel . After this bottom piece is elongated until the top end in using scarfed timbers.

August-September 2011  The core of the bottom is made of  two  100x50mm stringers which after to be glue together will be shape to get an octagonal section :

Second layer of timbers glued around the octogonal foot to make the first part of the mast untill 1.7m above the deck level :

View of the mast foot with its octogonal core+the first 50mm layer to get 200mm octagonal section :

Before to glue the third layer of timber on the bottom part of the mast, the foot is beginning to be shaped :

First foot face mast shaped before to add a third layer of 50mm timber  :

Shaping one another face :

Details of the shaping :

As the shaping in not symmetric on all the faces, on one face the central tube for electric wires is emerging on one side :

On the right the mast foot is shaped and not yet the other one one :

To finalise the shape I made a support on a router :

Before to use the router, I put off a maximum of wood with a saw and a chisel :

The stringers edges are cut at 67.5° :

First step to cut roughly the scarf :

As the circular saw is not enough tall I have to make a cut on each face :

Box used to make the scarfs :

the scarfs are finalised with the grinder :

Cutting the edges at 67.5° :

Test to check if all is correct before to glue the third layer of 50mm stringers (each timber is cut at its minimum length to avoid too much work during the final shaping :

Top view of the bottom masts. We can see the scarf shape of the third layer allowing to extend later the mast with scarfed timbers :

 Glueing the bottom of the mast viewed of the foot :

Glueing the bottom of the mast. View of the top where the upper part of the mast will be glued :

The third layer has to be shaped now :

Preparation to shape the foot of the masts with a frame to guide the router :

View of the different operations to shape the mast foot with a circular saw a chisel and a router :

The bottom is completely shaped from a 120x120mm section to the foot until a 300mm octagonal section at 300mm under the deck :

Glassing the bottom of the mast :

 View of the deck and foot  pieces which will be glued on the mast :

Adjusting the deck hole :

In order to glue the bottom part of the mast on the thick collars a part of the shelter roof is put off :

Rubber disk for a waterproof junction and to absorb a part of the hull movements :

 View of the top of the first part of the mast :

Glueing the mast on its thick deck collar without to glue it to the deck :

Glueing the mast to its foot collar :

Adding fillet and glass cloth :

Puting off the bottom mast part :

View of the two bottom part masts with their deck and foot collar :

Scarfing the timber to finish the masts :

Details of how is modified the router :

Finishing the scarf with the grinder :

General view of the scarfed timber :

The 4.9m timbers are glued together to get 13.250m timbers :

 8 long timbers are ready to be cut in 16 conical  stringers :

 Plan of the masts :

 Each 13m timber is cut in diagonal to get two stringers :

 a straight plywood guide is screwed on the timber to saw the timber at a 67.5° angle :

 Sawing the timbers :

The first timber is saw in two conic stringers :

 Scarfing the bottom of the stringers :

Scarfing the bottom of the stringers :

 Scarfing the bottom of the stringers :

 Aligning the bottom part of the mast :

Each meter an octagonal piece is centered to generate the conical shape of the mast :

Checking the correct alignment of all the octagonal supports :

The top of the mast is ended by a stainless steel tube which will receive the electric tube of 20mm and around the top stringers will be glued  :

 Octogonal supports aligned with the electric tube :

Electric tube from the bottom part :

Checking how the stringers will be glued to the bottom of the mast :

October 2011 Preparing to glue the two first stringers :

Glueing two more stringers :

Five stringers  are glued :

 Turning the mast  :

After the five first stringers have been glued the mast has been  turned over to glue the last three ones :

 At the top the stringers have a triangular section :

Glueing the 6th and 7th stringers :

Adjusting the last stringer :

Glueing the last stringer :

The first mast being built is stowed below the deck to free the space to build the second mast :

As we arrive at the mid October and to get a good glueing, after each glueing operation the mast is cover with a tarpaulin with electric heater.

Inside the second mast at the junction with the bottom part :

After to have built the second mast, the masts are rounded in making 16 faces and after 32faces before to use a big sand belt to get a smooth round section.

Drawing lines to make 16 faces with a planer :

Planing the faces :

Now the mast has 32 faces and is ready to have a finish with a big sand belt :

To drive the big sand belt I put an old tyre chamber from a bicycle around a bobbin to avoid the belt to slide. :

 How the sand belt is driven :

To hold this tool a tube with grease inside is put on the shaft :

Sanding the mast :

To turn easily the masts, they are hold with two ropes and two pulleys :

 Mast after to have used the sand belt :

 Top of the mast :

Glassing the masts :

The epoxy is maintained at a good temperature in hot water to get a fluid resin to glass correctly the masts :

Thick wood collars are prepared with glass to be glue at the top of the masts to receive the  pulleys :

 November 2011 painting the mast with 2 epoxy coats and 4 two parts polyurethane top coats :

 Top of the masts :

Top of the masts :

December 2011 making holes in the pieces of the stern ramp :

Glueing the stern ramp :

 Stern ramp :

Stern ramp :

 Stern ramp :

Stern ramp

January 012 the pod plexiglas door :

Seats made from foam under the bimini :

Four  Sanyo solar panels are fixed on the bimini :

Datas of the solar panels :

Lock system of the escape hatches which can be open from the inside and outside. The central lock is to secure the boat when nobody is on the boat. The ladder is able to be lifted quickly to free the escape hole :

View from the outside :

In February, March and April I worked mainly on the wiring and installation of electric and electronic gears.

The end of this blog on the  Part 3

Views: 2255


You need to be a member of Wharram Builders and Friends to add comments!

Join Wharram Builders and Friends

© 2017   Created by Budget Boater.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service