A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
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1.Place the rope traveler in front of the stern beam so that things can be attached to the rear beam and not be hit by the traveler.
2. Make the aft end of the tillers 3"longer so I could drill a hole in each for the trimtabs of the wind vane system.
3. Make the rudders straight on the back edge so that its easy to attach the trim tabs.
4. We made the deck pod about 11 feet wide in the back and the cockpit about 11 feet wide in the front and are happy with it.
5. We made the deckpod about 5" taller in the back. 48" tall at the back edge of the mast case(full width of the plywood sheet just in front of the door/passage from port to starboard).
6. At many of the upper bulkheads with cutouts they are about 4 inches wide. I would make them 8 inches wide so that shelves can butt up against them easily without any fancy flairing. Functional shelving is important for my family.
7. When coating plywood with epoxy prior to use on the boat we frequently used a large drywall taping knife instead of a brush or roller to spread the epoxy.
8. The plastic popsickle stick works great and can be used again and again and again.
9. We put a hardwood re-enforcement in the midship for a cleet.(per Ann and Nevills rec). We should have changed the softwood center strip on the bow and stern to hardwood for the same reason(now our stern cleats are off center and I still have to put on bow cleats)
10. We made the tiller arms with tapered pieces inside and no gaps. The only hole in the tiller is for the rudder. We then glassed them.