"Why go through all the expense to buy tinned wire then crimp it I believe the best way is to solder then shrink tube each connection is much better if there in no way water or moisture can get to metal this solves a lot of problems I also use…"
"sorry being so late. i will put some pics together and send you. can you send me your email. i would send them there. i m building the hulls in alu wheels on electric motor. so i can turn the hull and do the final welding in its best position.…"
don t listen to the naysayers from wharrambuilders club. they got no idea what alu boatbuilding is, neither the advantages and neither do they know that an aluminium wharram 42ft upwards is not heavier than plywood with fibre and all the toxic things they put in and on the hull. i can say you that you save a lot of money and weight building in aluminium. i make all brackets, shrouds attachments and evverything in alu. as you said with a nice miller system or like we have a fronius tps2700 the entire story about alu welding is becoming to be changed in something very easy even for beginner welders. our hull is 51 ft long and was discussed in the past ones in the wharrambuilders. of course one had to compare my 51ft wharram style cat (which is in the hullsize, full standing headroom the entire hull length, 2,5m maxbeam hull, 8,1mbeam) with the tehini sardin tin-like hull instaed of comparing it with a pahi 52 or the islander 55. there you will see that my hull (20mm keelplate, 6mm up to chine, 5mm sides and roof, 6mm ringframes each 700mm, 45/6mm stringers each approx.270mm, 4 beam 400 by 315mm/6mm thickness) is for its strength you can say light compared to wharram cats of same range. but much much much stronger i say. and 100 % recyclebar, no resins and fibres toxic crab stuf you know. i hope you see thatyou are on the right track. you are not the first one. approx. you are the 4th or 5 th one building alu wharram or wharram style. i will put a crab claw balanced sail on a A-mast in front and a freestanding mast on each hull near the stern and a lugsail on each. all togehter ca. 90m2. cheers chris
Thank you Cris I saw a Aluminum boat a while ago that had been submerged for 20 years in the sea it was hauled out and cleaned it looked great no ill effects I could see. Then I was told it was build for the Navy to test how it would stand up to salt water it, I asked when it was built I was told 1939. Wow that sold me. Marine ply looks lovely but it is not inexspencive . so much less time , work and cost building in Aluminum
if one used common sense about dissimular metals and corrosion is not a problem with aluminum I mentioned that boat that was built for the US Navy it is a 30 ft hull submersed in salt water for more than 20 years built in 1939 is still sailing today . this sells me on aluminum and on boats over 40 feet it is just as light as wood with fiberglass or even lighter and is availible in 8 ft x20 ft sheets so very few joints to deal with how many wood hulls out there that have not seen any wood replacement in over 85 years
sorry being so late. i will put some pics together and send you. can you send me your email. i would send them there. i m building the hulls in alu wheels on electric motor. so i can turn the hull and do the final welding in its best position. THAT CHANGES THE ENTIRE WAY OF BUILING THE BEST QUALITY ALU-HULLS!!!cheers mate
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