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"I'm concerned about crossbeam connections to the hull on the 30 footers  tiki 30. Up to now I've been planning to lash it with rope in the old-fashioned way. Now that the time is here I don't see that it's going to be so easy…"Plans ask for webbing strap to go through a slot in the deck block then up around the crossarm beam.the cross beam support box below deck is the supporting foundation for everything.I  cannot see that there is any way to use rope to achieve the same support???Any thoughts on this /

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Hi! I made double fitting.  Used the strap to the deck block and rope to the side block. The seccond became the main and the first was saved for the case. The cat became much more hard and suitable to sail in hard conditions.

Do you mean the strap on the outboard side. And lashing on the inboard side/

No. I had the straps to the ondeck blocks and lashig to sidemounted blocks. Works perfect way. Much more strong construction in comparison to Mr Wharram.

John there are some photos here on this site of a Tiki30 that made some nice webbing connections that seemed able to apply enough tension. Budget Boater used ratcheting cargo straps. JWD sells an upgrade design detail package which includes the side lashings. The lashings are the best IMO.

I use the third option, lashing around the blocks, works well. My two front beams stay static, but my aft beam works a little. And make some sounds... But I think is becouse I don't build the beam blocks well. Maybe will need be bigger a little. 

Use rubbers down the beam helps a good attachment. I don't use straps becouse the price here in Brazil. 

Looks like suitable to double lashing for the damage case. Any way the lashing shown here works.

looks good a picture is worth 100 words                                                                                                                  Thanks

My aft beam error...this failure mm works like an orchestra, nowWe respect the 4cm in minimum tickness in beam block

Do you plase ruber or other material between crosbeam and deck basement?


You will get a lot of sound if not to place... The rubber to place must be fixed properly- another way you will lose it very soon and once more = the sound.

I have a few questions on the rope/side lashings. My tiki30 has the webbing connection, which is absolute rubbish. Holes in deck that get pulled on cause leaks. I converted my Hinemoa to rope lashings, and she became a much better boat.

I want to do the same on the Tiki30.

So a few questions.

Are the beams longer for the side lashings? It looks to me like I would have to add about 2-3'' either end of the beams in order to have a surface to lash onto.

What do the interior reinforcements look like? Mine has the ply triangle, between deck and hull side, along with a hardwood doubler on underside of deck for bolts. All are failing or have failed(and been repaired)

Also, how about the lashed on chainplates? And forestay Bridle? I try to remove as much metal as possible from my boats. In my experience it fails, or causes failures. Just replaced the top 5' of my mast because of metal causing failures, and now I have decking to fix.

On my Hinemoa, I epoxied in beams under the deck and extending out either side 2". It worked, though was a laborious modification, that cut down on interior space. I would like to see what the simpler solution is.

Any thoughts or pictures would be muchly appreciated




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