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Just had a quote for replacing the standing rigging for my Tiki 26, Taking her across biscay in June and half thinking of changing to dyneema standing rigging as at least you can see the wear and tare! What do you think? :



6 x 6mm eye terminals - £59.70

8 x 4mm eye terminals - £43.20

6mm wire - £29.81

4mm wire - £50.80

2 x Bridle plates - £71.12 (optional)



4 hours at £56/hour - £224.00


Total Cost:




6mm Line - £103.74

5mm line - £184.86

Bridle Plates - £71.12 (optional)



4 hours at £56/hour - £224.00


Total estimate:

£583.72 (including bridle plates)

For the dyneema I can splice myself so can probably take off the labour...

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Use Coligo DUX from colligo marine. The best. http://www.colligomarine.com/

I like Colligo a lot. John Franta is very helpful and his stuff is way cool.

I am in the middle of replacing my standing rigging on a Tiki 26 an staying with 6mm wire all round.  I do not know enough about dyneema but the idea of chafe puts me off.  They say wire offers 10 years of life and can you say the same for dyneema? I may use it on the bridle either to lace each leg through the hulls or as an adjuster on the legs themselves.  Although I carry wire cutters the forestay bridle is the only wire that would have to be cut to get rid of the mast in an emergency and dyneema offers a soft spot. I must say you have a good deal on the wire.  I bought online from Jimmy Green and ordered the 4 x shrouds, 1 x forestay and 2 x bridle wires all with swaged eye terminals on one end.  The lengths are overlong and I am reusing my Norseman and Sta-Lok swageless terminals on the other ends.

Well, while Dyneema has some quirks I need to deal with, if I use Dyneema, I can carry enough replacement material for my standing rigging in the bottom of my rigging bag. Additionally, the same bag also has any tools I may need to effect a repair. I can't say the same for steel wire.



We have just replaced the wire rigging on our Tiki 30 with covered spectra rigging with a strength to match/exceed that of the wire (can not remember of the top of my head what the diameter is but it is about the same).  We found that there was a fair amount of stretch after initial fitting so you need to leave plenty of space between the shroud end and the chain plates.  The rigging is a fraction of the weight of the wire and is easy to splice without needing specialist tools.  We changed over in April last year and when we went back to the boat at Christmas it seemed to be as taut as when we left it; however, I think I have detected it tightening as the weather warms up.

The colligo system is very good but expensive so we went for oversize hard eyes at the end of the shrouds and bow shackles on the chain plates with an uncovered spectra (I think) lanyard which has worked well.  We have a plan to replace the hard eyes and shackles with deadeyes made out of a plastic at some point.

We are sticking with wire for the bridle for durability and the fact that it is impossible to adjust at sea and wire for the forestay as we are going back to a hanked forestay and wire is better for hanks I believe.


I did my own splicing with dyneema heat set STS using Franta's brummel splice YouTube video as a guide it was awesome and easy once I did the first one I say dyneema all the way... My tangaroa had amsteel blue for 13yrs and while it was faded and fuzzy it never failed

my Hitia 17 is rigged with dneema Liros pro. No creep. Excellent condition after 3 years. Splicing is super easy. I did lolong splices however instead of brummels. very happy with it. Picture shows a shroud. I put a thicker dyneema rope around the loop as a chafe sleeve

and is this all braid on braid or single braid?

thanks for all your comments...

Take care with your splices....

Bloody Hell!

what type of rope was that?

Rogerio Martin said:

Take care with your splices....

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