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I have just taken down my wooden mast for servicing and to replace the standing rigging as it is now10 years old.  I also want to try and solve the problem of the outside of the gaff fork rubbing on the shrouds.  I wonder if the blocks that the shrouds sit in have been fitted to low down.  On my tiki 26 with an aluminium mast the shrouds went to the top of the mast and never rubbed the gaff.  I would be really grateful if anyone could advise on the positioning of these blocks (hounds?) The builder tells me the mast was built to plans.  I have seen a picture on here where the block look nearer the mast head than mine.  I will post a photo.



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I just have had a look in the plans. The blocks should be 200 mm and 420 mm lower than the top of the mast. This figures are the distance from the top of the mast (without mastcap (20 mm)) to the top of the blocks. The top of the upper block is on the same Level, where the mast-crane is equal to the mast. So your blocks should be higher as they are.

Thanks for your reply, it is really useful to know what the plans say.  Do the plans say which shroud (front or back) locates on the upper and lower block?  I was planning to make a new pair of blocks and fit them above the old top blocks (which will then become the lower blocks).  If I do this then the top blocks will be in front of the lower ones rather than behind…do you think it matters?  Also do the plans specify the length of the fixing screws?  

I would be really grateful for any advice.


The upper blocks are for the back-shrouds, the lower blocks are for the front-shrouds. I don't know if a Problem occours, if the upper blocks are in front of the lower. I don't think so. The plans mark 3"-75mm * No. 14 St. Steel screws. Two for each block.

Hi, thanks for that, I will have a look at them tomorrow an measure up hopefully get new blocks made up at the weekend and epoxy them on and glass up the patch at the top if the weather warms up!

Your spinnaker looks good, how close to the wind can you sail with it.  I am thinking of getting an asymmetric for mine to get closer to the wind than my symmetric.


This is not a Spinnaker but a asymmetric gennaker. I can use it close to 60° to the apperiant wind an when I go downwind I should have the windancle not over 160°.. tricky is that the gennaker is rolld on a rope with low torsion and rolles out and in with a furler. so handling is much easier.

Sounds good to have it on a furler. Do you hoist it when you need it or leave it hoisted.  Does the tack fix to a bridle or do you have a pole?  I would like to set up something similar for going more upwind than my symmetric spinnaker when the wind is light.  Where did you get it?


I hoist it only, when i need it. There is no pole, but nearly the same construction, as you have aft for the mainsheet: a rope from bow to bow, a block that is controlled by two lines, so the block can be travelled from port to starboard an back and the furler is connected to this block. You can see this on the photo


Thanks for the info, it looks really good. Where did you get the gennaker?  I think I will get one and see how easy it is to hoist and drop before getting the furler.

Do you have the dimension of the shrouds in the plans?  Mine are 5mm , 8.85m and 9.15m and the loop is 68cm.  I wonder if the shrouds were made before the mast and the builder decided to build a pod and so needed to make the mast a bit taller so the sail clears the pod?

my shrouds are out of dynema. I chahged that some years ago. Because of the lashings of the shouds to the boot in my opinion the length of them is not so important.

My loops have the same size than yours. But the shrouds are so short, that the lashing-terminals are above the cabinroof. I did so, because so they are easier to fasten, if necessary. You can allways fasten the lee-shrouds if you are underway.

My gennaker is a standard from lee-sails http://www.leesails.biz/seiten/standard.html the one with 42 m².

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