Disassemble and load a Tiki 26 onto a trailer on dry land?

[Randall S Anselmo]

If anyone has advice on conducting this operation without a crane, I would be much obliged to hear it.  The boat is currently resting on four stacks of 6x6" blocks in a boatyard, with the trailer close by.  There is also a set of cradles, presumably left over from the building process.  My best idea so far is to mount wheels on the cradles, place them just aft of the midpoints, lower the hulls down onto them using jacks, then disassemble the crossbeam lashings and separate them.  I then picture rolling each hull individually up to the back of the trailer, pivoting the bows up, then letting them gently down onto the trailer and levering the stern up, then using the winch and rollers on the trailer to move them forward into traveling position.  I welcome critiques!

[boatsmith]

Congrats Randy. BUT we all want to see some photos. and folks that read this in the future will want to see some as well. IF there is a common denominator amongst the cult members ,it is that we all hate to part with our cash.
Bob, we have the wooden mast on our T30 as well. It cost me more(I pay for labor), weighs more, and has rot potential, I won't use a wooden mast on any more of my boats. For a customer, if that's what they want, sure, at extra cost. We have raised and lowered our T30 mast with a strut off the front and it is fairly easy. My local yard still only charges me $100 to up or down my mast so we usually use the crane. If you are hiring equipment to load boat parts it will save you lots of money if you are already rigged when the equipment shows up. Some yards are also more brutal than others. I have paid $2,000 to offload my boat parts and set the cockpit and mast and then reverse after a show. I have also paid $600 for the same work at a different yard. It pays to shop. Cheers, David

[Randall S Anselmo]

David,

You caught me red-handed. While I fully intended to photo document the process, my mind was so preoccupied with the mechanical aspect of the job, that when I arrived in Staten Island, I realized that there was one tool missing from the bag: my camera. I promise to do a better job next time.

To the mast comments: Taking down Espresso's aluminum mast was a breeze...I was very thankful for it. Receipts from the original builder indicate it cost $403 with clear anodized finish in 2005.

Randy



boatsmith said:

Congrats Randy. BUT we all want to see some photos. and folks that read this in the future will want to see some as well. IF there is a common denominator amongst the cult members ,it is that we all hate to part with our cash.
Bob, we have the wooden mast on our T30 as well. It cost me more(I pay for labor), weighs more, and has rot potential, I won't use a wooden mast on any more of my boats. For a customer, if that's what they want, sure, at extra cost. We have raised and lowered our T30 mast with a strut off the front and it is fairly easy. My local yard still only charges me $100 to up or down my mast so we usually use the crane. If you are hiring equipment to load boat parts it will save you lots of money if you are already rigged when the equipment shows up. Some yards are also more brutal than others. I have paid $2,000 to offload my boat parts and set the cockpit and mast and then reverse after a show. I have also paid $600 for the same work at a different yard. It pays to shop. Cheers, David

[boatsmith]

I know what you mean. I frequently get so involved that I forget to take any pictures of some very cool stuff.
David

[marco]

hello Randall,

i made a copy from a expending stiletto catamaran trailor,they have galvaniced pipes who go in each other,assambling is much more easy,and better for your boat,rase mast with a trailor winch.

 

greetings,

Marco

[Randall S Anselmo]

Thanks Marco!  Do you have more photos of the trailer?  I would love to see close up photos of where the pipes attach and how the cradles are constructed.

marco said:

hello Randall,

i made a copy from a expending stiletto catamaran trailor,they have galvaniced pipes who go in each other,assambling is much more easy,and better for your boat,rase mast with a trailor winch.

 

greetings,

Marco

[marco]

hi Randall,

i could not find square galvaniced pipe ,so i build mine in round,65 and 80mm with a wall of 4mm,the square pipe is the trailor of a stiletto 27.

this is strong enough for a  21 from 400 kg,but a 26 is about 700 kg,this gives some ??? 

[marco]

some more pictures of the stiletto 27 trailer.

i welded a part on my mast to put a rope true,to give tension to prevent mast from falling sideways i bind these on my middle beam cleats,after rising this rope is very helpful to create a nice shadowplace to bind on,in some days i lower my mast then i can make a picture from the situation

 

greetings,

Marco

[Randall S Anselmo]

Great detail photos, Marco.  Thanks very much.  I was looking at my trailer today and thinking about how I could do something similar, but my wheels are outside the hulls, which would be a barrier to expanding them sideways.  I could put them on a shorter axle so that they are between the hulls, like yours, but I wonder about roll/lateral stability on the road.  I also store my cross-beams and mast between the hulls, so would lose much of that space.  I realize your boat is smaller, but do you ever feel like your boat could roll when you make a turn?  And where do you store your beams and mast during transport?

marco said:

some more pictures of the stiletto 27 trailer.

i welded a part on my mast to put a rope true,to give tension to prevent mast from falling sideways i bind these on my middle beam cleats,after rising this rope is very helpful to create a nice shadowplace to bind on,in some days i lower my mast then i can make a picture from the situation

 

greetings,

Marco

[marco]

hello Randall,

in the origial design from the stiletto 27 the hulls go over your weels,the picture is a bit gaotic but the white "v" shows the place where the hull belongs to be for transport,mine hulls stay outside !!!

this gives a traier from 2,90 cm wide,but i live in Turkey,there they don"t look so close,i drive slowly over a bad road for short disances,but i think i don"t like to go 100 km/h or more.

i don"t have a trampoline,but ply there also ,i can store all deckparts beams and mast in between the hulls,exept where the engine is on is laying on a cabine roof binded.

fair winds,

Marco

 

 

[Randall S Anselmo]

Ah, yes, I see.  Thanks!

[marco]

Hi Randall,

here you see my mast lowering with 2 support ropes from masttop to the middle cleats to prevent sideway falling.

Wharram seems allergic to inox,but it"s a nice material to make a mastfeet from .

 

greetings,

 

Marco

[adriano meis]

HI everybody. I've the same problem anselmo had. my T26 is now floatin in croatia but soon I've to carry it on dry land and put it on a trailer Without crane. I'm now building two small trailers to carry it from the water to the ground, and I think there should not be big problem to diassamble it.

The big problem is how to put the 2 hulls on the road - trailer. Can saomebody of you please exlpain me (in easy english) step by step how I can do. if there are any pictures wolud be big present