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Has anyone had experience of using danish oil to finish teak or iroko on the outside of a boat?  In the past I've always used boiled linseed oil, but recently a chainsaw sculptor recommended danish oil for protecting a carved tree in the garden, and I'm very pleased with how it's turned out.  I was wondering how well it would work on the iroko rubbing strips on my Tiki.

I understand danish oil is mainly tung oil, plus solvents and drying agents.  It goes on easily with a brush or rag and dries pretty fast.  On the sculpture it has left a nice matt sheen, except in places where I put on three coats and it's slightly glossy.  It certainly dries better than the linseed oil and I suspect it won't attract dirt, but I wouldn't want to use anything that can go flaky with age the way varnish does, especially in strong sunlight.

The stuff I'm talking about is sold for household use and garden furniture, and is very cheap, not the expensive Deks Olje sold in yacht chandlers.

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Usually, it's a 50/50 mix of tung oil and either orange oil or turpentine. Tung oil isn't that cheap. Here's a source:     http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/:

Robert.  You may have moved on and this may be out of date but I have used the cheap stuff on my mainly plywood GPS antenna bracket on the rear tramp beam which is very exposed.  It was a temporary bracket that eventually remained on for 5 or 6 years.  It seemed OK but needed recoating each season.  Mind you it is so easy to apply that doing so is not much of a problem. You might get better longevity on iroko.   I have used it more extensively on inside fittings and that has lasted for years.  Colron is the product I have from the local DIY.  I came across this post after trawling for an answer to a similar issue which I will put up separately.

Thanks Jerry, that's interesting.  I've been watching how it lasts on the sculpture, and I think it's similar to the boiled linseed oil I'm used to using.  I can see it would need recoating at least each season.  I've still not decided which to use on the iroko, which is bare at the moment.

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