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Excuse my ignorance please.

My newly acquired Tiki 21 is out of the water now undergoing a general refurb and refit. When it goes back in the water in the spring, it will go to my newly acquired mooring with its pick up buoy and strop.

The question is how best to attach to the boat. See below the current arrangement.

You can see the heavy bridle. Should I replace and with what? How then to best connect to the strop?

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Hi Ian,just seen your questions so here goes-

I have a tiki 21 on a mooring in a tidal channel of a bay.

Like you I had a 2 srtroke 4 hp motor ....adequate.I'm doing a big restoration on a tiki 26 & recently bought a 6hp 4stroke tohatsu saildrive for it .

I tried it on the tiki 21 cos I couldnt wait till the 26 was finished .Wow ! The power,the economy,ease of starting & the relative quiet were a joy....& not a lot heavier.

Build new decks.Ive done a lot of renovating now & i will always do this in the future.

I filled in the space under the central deck so it was more egg box like & gave me a rope/anchor  storage space.If I was giving this boat the love it deserves I would figure how to do this to the side decks too, I think.But the beauty of these boats is you could save that mod for another winter & have more mulling time

I have a mooring in the tidal channel.This arrangement has worked for me now for 12ish years now but Im not recomending anything!

I have a heavy bridle attached to the front beam beside the inner beam lashings.I have a chunky SS carbine hook in the middle of that going to a fairly short strop onto the mooring swivel.I have a seperate lighter rope coming off the swivel with the pick up bouy & loop .This is longer than the bridle arrangement & goes onto the end of the beam,but isnt underload.The idea being that if the bridle were to fail then the pick up bouy still holds.Pros & cons..Its a bit more faff.

I think I had lost one of those front handles too..so I made the new ones chunkier.

Sweet boats, these.

Hi Ian,

I use a 1/2 inch braided line, run around the mast, then through two chocks that are bolted into the top of the forward beam.  I have chafe protection where it contacts the mast and the chocks. There is a loop in the center of the portion that dangles below the beam, and there is a  heavy stainless steel gate clip that stays attached to the mooring strop, which we use for the attachment to the bridle loop. I hope that helps.


Randy, thanks for your reply. That's really helpful and confirms my general direction of thinking.

No problem. I should also mention that for extra protection when I am away from the boat, I also lead a dock line from one of the bow handles, through the eye of the mooring strop (not the gate clip), then through the opposite bow handle, and cleat it off on the forward beam-end cleat on that side. I then do the same thing from the opposite side. These backup lines are cleated so that they hang a bit loose, allowing the mooring bridle to take all of the load. I may sound paranoid, but I feel like it's good insurance against a failure of the bridle.

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