I've been doing a bunch of repair work this spring and thinking I should blog about them. I've had few issues. a piece of wood rot because I forgot to epoxy all of it kind of like a cavity. the oak I used has been a problem, it doesn't like epoxy and the biggest one - my mast step knuckle shearing off. Noticed while sailing, dropped the mast, built a deeper knuckle and recessed it into the maast step plate, screwed and glued. Overall maintenance hasn't been huge. Now for things I'd change? the biggest is watching out that you don't go adding more and more stuff on board. In the Pacific NorthWest good ventilation and a cockpit tent are key because of the rain. I'll write more later.
A mix of the practical and aesthetic. Increasing the volume of the cabin allows the bunks to be raised giving some extra stowage as well as more room in the sail locker. I also prefer the way it looks aesthetically, I always liked the look of the Tiki 28 and of course "Cooking Fat". The blended deckline is common on other Wharram designs, so I am not reinventing the wheel but I may borrow design details from others of the Tiki range just as I would from other builders (with acknowledgement and gratitude of course). As far as I know nobody has done this mod on a Tiki 26, I think it would be worth the effort, research and additional build time.
i'd still like to pitch in and help someone else before i begin, if only to fill my favour bank for when i get started myself. and although i've done a fair bit of sailing (racing monohulls) i've never actually been on a Wharram or seen one in the flesh, so I'm really starting behind the eightball.
Gday Paul,Hows it goin m8?Yeah the i was fortunate enough to be in Indonesia for a good selection of timbers.A lot of mine was selected from well seasoned recycled timber and in the case of the decks came from old warehouse beams.Teak,old teak.When you cut it the the dust can be squeezed into oily balls.perfect for your decks.best Dave
Paul, have you considered a steel pipe as rear beam to hold your netting? Could be stainles or galvanized and painted and the ends plugged with epoxy. As it is much stronger than aluminum you will get away with a smaller diameter and wall thickness, in the end the difference in weight might be less than one thinks first.
I mention this because galv. steel would much cheaper and in my part of the world marine grade alu pipe is near impossible to find while steel pipes are no problem to get.
When I built my rear beam I found that wood is quite heavy and a steel pipe would have been lighter for the same strength but I need to attach a bracket for my wind vane, so steel was not an option for me. If it were just for lashing a net to it, I would have used steel pipe.
Paul, my hollow, semi-triangular section Doug fir net beam is plenty stiff, yet lightweight. I can sit or stand on it at midpoint with no flex. The details of the design are on my blog. I think the teak rail for trampoline lashings contributes a lot to the stiffness, as does the glass sheathing all the way around it. The reason I went this way instead of round aluminum is because i didn't want the tramp lashings to go all the way around the beam, and I wanted to be able to mount things on it with screws.
Thank you fellas,unlike the U.S. here in AUST anything with'' marine '' comes at a premium price a mate of mine had a look at the beam i had made and reckons it ain't too heavy and i am just being a girl;)
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