With my wife and our 3 youngest children we built a Tiki30 in Martinique in 3 years during my free times.
Our cat PHA has been launched in December 2004 . During six months we sailed in Martinique and towards the north and south islands to test she, especially the rig : a twin Swing wing rig with a free mast on each hull.
In June 2005 we crossed the north Atlantic to join without stop Morgat in France. Since, each year we sail in UK and south Brittany for training and to continue to test the boat and her rig.
With the European rules for amateur builders, we have to wait 5 years before to be allowed to sell she. So we hope to sell she in November 2009 in order to finish and launch her big brother : a Tiki46.
I like very much this dreaming boat, specially the PHA solutions and its way.
5 years ago I had worked on building a T30. So, I know very well this design; And now I'm thinking to extend this basic design to 33/35 feet, with 8-9mm ply skin, and a bigger deck pod to allow to get the galley at social center of the boat. But I'm not yet sure about this becouse what we need is not a bigger boat but more carrying capacity.
We planning sail from Brazil to Caribbbean and then to Panama channel and cross Pacific.
Please, Bertrand and others friends, what do you think about this idea and about the loading capacity of Tiki 30 for live aboard 3/4 people?
If we carry the boat 1 1/2 ton of goods it will imerse her knuckle?
Many thanks for your attention.
Just do it the easy way and build a Tiki 38. I will be far more comfortable and can carry far more weight. Lightly loaded, it will be fast. Everything you asked for in a stretched Tiki 30 already exists in the Tiki 38
I think that stretching a Tiki 30 to 36' by adding a 4th main beam aft would be a great idea. Still build with 6mm still keep low profile add pod aft . Increase sail area with taller and longer main and moving headstay out to stems. I also don't mind reefing at 15 knots of breeze.I want light air horsepower. Add screacher a sprit. Tiki 30s trim down in the stern as designed. A longer waterline with more sail area and little added weight would make for a more comfortable boa with better performance I plan on working out the details of this design with Hanneke when she returns from sailing. David
I would also mention that or Tiki 30 returned from the Miami show covering 80 miles in 6 1/2 hrs. 20 knots of breeze, broad reaching high speed of 17 mph. The gulf stream helped but then we made it down to Miami in 9 hrs with 15 knots of breeze. And yes the boat sails very well to weather as well. David
Happily the double end shape of the Wharram cats accept to be overloaded without to reduce her speed and seaworthy. When we left the Martinique to cross the Atlantic, PHA was overloaded and we had to close the wind during the first days among crossed waves from NE and SE. Sometimes some waves touched the central cabin bottom..We were 2 adults but I think fwith 4 peoples it will be difficult to take all the necessary to sail offshore during one month.
On the plans Wharram announces an empty weight boat which is in fact only the weight of all the wood + glass + epoxy.. In the marine an empty boat is a boat ready to sail with all the gears, rig, sails, engine, anchor, chain etc. without the crew + food + water + petrol and its very different!!! So in fact the real loading capacity of the Tiki30 in not 1 Ton but only the half. Happily she can accept to be overloaded.
I think for you, to build a Tiki38 would be the easiest and quickest way with a central cabin in the center. So you'll have more room and more intimacy for 4 peoples with a correct loading capacity for long cruises. Your plan to stretch a Tiki30 design, it is not so easy and by experience I know it's faster to follow exactly a plan than to elaborate your own plans.
Bertrand
Many thanks friends,
I'm glad by your answers. However no one tell about if overload with 1 1/2 ton T30 immerse her knuckle in water. This maybe will change her 1:12 LWL/beam each hull.
I know that Tiki 38' is a better way to sail round the world. But not to build, no one who had builded this boat with his hands get finished at expected work, time and money. Time is not a big problem, but money is so hard to get on third world country.
Design/drawing is not a problem for me. I'm fine artist from university and when young I had work for achitects.
So,I consider the comment from David about still 6mm ply skin and low profile to try a 33' version, adding just one secondary crossbeam (into half hull) on bulkhead 5 to take and distribute the pod/cockpit load... Let us see how it work!
And if Hanneke draw it, or some thing so, I think she will complete the lacun from 30 to 38 feet. As T31' as James says is more a workboat.
The comments from Bertrand about his voyage on PHA and the ability of Wharrams to take overload without problems confirm my 2000NM offshore (5-36 miles from coast) experience on my T21'. And clear the loading capacity given by Wharram plans.
By now thank you very much. I wish to hear from you again and to continue our discussion.
Best winds,
Tarcisio.
Just got back from sailing out Tiki 30, Mango Elephant, after fitting a pod to it using the JWD plans and thought I would share our thoughts; will be doing a proper write up sometime soon for the SeaPeople.
Good things:
The outboard well is wider than what we had previously and we have found that being able to turn the engine more has dramatically reduced our turning circle.
Winches much better placed for single handing.
Protection for helm when sailing in bad weather
Putting navigation stuff in pod removes the worry of water landing on the chart table in the hull during bad weather (this was a big problem for us when we first got the boat) and it is more to hand.
Comfortable covered shared sitting space for more than 2 people in poor weather (we are in the UK).
Easier to design a deck tent for harbour use.
Bad things:
The outboard well is about 2" too low for our long shaft yamaha.
Waves catch on the engine and the back of the pod and deposit themselves in the cockpit, we reduced this with a cloth under the outboard when sailing and will fit a outboard well box this winter.
Less party space.
Cockpit gets cramped with more than 2 people in it - if you regularly sail with more you might want to consider making the pod a bit shorter.
You lose the safe sail handling area of the open cockpit, but it did not pose any real problems in the worst weather we encountered (F5-7 in the North Sea).
Will need a new tabernacle arrangement to allow us to raise and lower the mast ourselves as it is currently hinged at the aft end.
Well, I have decided between the T31 and the T30 and will begin in the next month or so on T30 #200. My biggest concerns beyond the plans are the engine well and how it raises and lowers and the cockpit tray. Wharram talks over and over again about how a solid bridgedeck causes banging and is dangerous in big seas and the Tiki 30 is made with a solid cockpit. Anyone else make their Tiki 30 with a slatted cockpit? Any thoughts? Thanks...
Sometimes the bottomm of the cockpt does slap waves. not a big deal. We lowered our cockpit 2" for incresed headroom under bimini. No regrets. We put two 2" scuppers in the bck of our cockpit. Next time I think we will put at lest 4. We also moved our engine to the center of the cockpit and put a cover over it and this prevents water from escaping there. Love the bot David www.boatsmithfl.com
I took a look at your website David, that Tiki is gorgeous. I especially like the 4th beam supporting the rear trampoline and ladder, nice touch. Anyone out there have input on Epoxy brands. I am very familiar with West Systems, although I've been told by several local builders that the humidity (in the Virgin Islands) is too much for West, that it turns milky and they suggested System Three. Any thoughts?
Greetings Jordan. I'm back at work on T30 #197 here in Hawaii. I've been using a 5:1 epoxy that is "as" west system -Fiberglass Hawaii- , and the 'fast' hardener.
I have had no milky problems, but can mix only small batches... which works out very well to keep the heat down, the build up moving forward and less waste. I dont know but wonder if a slow hardener would be more prone to the emulsive milky thing in our -similar- climates.
We build here in South Florida and ave not ad any problems from humidity with either West or Raka epoxies. WE almost always use fast hardener. David www.boatsmitfl.com
Thanks for the info. Also, in the building instructions it says that wire can be used for stitching, but screws are better for the larger Tikis. Any info on what you have used and dimensions of screws and holes? Finally, I have seen big differences between JWD estimated costs and what my calculations are and what others have spent, input would be greatly appreciated...Lot's of questions as I start this project, but my biggest concern is to just work non-stop and taking time off from building to refill the kitty is not what I'd like to do.
JWD's time estimates are off by a factor of 1 1/2 to 4 times depending on you skill level and your level of finish and how much equipment you are including. Making everything fair and pretty takes more time, lots more.If you are happy with fillets that are not so smooth and don't want a premium paint finish then you will save time. If you don't want any plumbing or electric in the boat you will also save time. No adding any extras such as a rear beam and tramps w/boarding ladder, ice boxes, varnished interior trim, cushions, bimini, anchor storage/roller, spinnaker gear, ad nauseum. You get the idea, to build a bare rough boat can be done close to JWD's hrs. Most people want more boat than that. But not everyone. We use deck screws for temporary clamps. We use flat washers to provide more pulling power and to prevent burying the screw head. Cost is a huge variable. It depends upon ones desires and ones shopping abilities. Beat Rettenmund built his Tiki 38 for under $50k. His boat has a work-boat finish and is equipped simply. He is also royalty when it comes to being able scrounge 2nd hand gear and coming up with novel lo-cost options. His entire rig cost under $500. He sailed with his wife,Beatriz and a friend from San Fransisco to Hawaii in 16 days, so I guess the rig works OK. The boat is also very attractive.
The short answer is it will cost more and take longer than you think, just ask my wife!!
I second Boatsmith on his time and cost estimates. Having already built 2 Wharrams, and on my third, it always takes more time than Wharram's estimates, even if you are skilled at it. In most cases, it also costs more than his estimates, even for the basic boat.
Hi everyone , I am a new member ,about to order Tiki 30 plans and start building. I owned a few yachts over last 20 years of live aboard life stile all multihulls , after building a large ,modern 52 ft performance cat , I experienced all the downfalls of building ,keeping and sailing a large yacht , , Selling it was very rewarding . Owning a house now and not happy with stale average suburban living . The sea and a 'hero' lifestyle calls again . All my yachting experience is pointing to one ideal boat to build own and sail and it is Tiki 30 . I think I made the right choice .
Is it feasible on the T30 to move the rear beam further aft so tha the cabin can be pushed back so that that you can have 4 double berths. My thinking is to increase the accommodation for a family boat for tropical holiday cruising. Most of the day will be spent on deck under the bimini which needs to have roll up sides for bad weather. Any comments.
The "double" bunks on Tiki 30' have only 0,95 m width. If you stretch the cabin backward to get another berth, this will very narrow for a couple, even at honey moon. (smile!)
I think the better way to increase accomodation is to build a deck tent. This option will provide very big protected space when anchored, without wind or rain inside. You can see mine at www.veleiro.net/polinesio.
I added a coach roof to the fore cabin (see my photos), and thus created a more usable single bunk. I would not move the rear beam aft, but you could make a cutout in bulkhead #6 as shown as an option for bulkhead #3. This is how JWD creates an spare bunk in the T26. These bunks are to narrow to really be called double bunks though.
thanks Duncan and Tarcisio, I did not realise the berths were .95m as the beam in the specs is around 4'2" or 1.3m so width must be lost in the v of the hull. Duncan I see you have sold your T30 and are now building a T26 it is unusual to go smaller so I would be interested in why you made that call. Regards Justin
Hi Justin, I sold my T30 in South Africa, and now I am living in New Zealand. The decision to build a T26 was an accidental one, in that I was able to buy an unused set of T26 plans cheap. Though all said, I have just returned from SA and had discussions with the owner of 'Inkosinati' and I might ship her to NZ and refurbish her - topsides need to be repainted etc. she has been in the water for 8 years now. I will probably still build the T26 as it will be easier to trailer. Regarding the berth width, if one raises the roof slightly one can use a thick mattress and if it is contoured to fit the hulls you can gain 50mm or so. I curve the roof line to compliment the sheer and carried the line through in to my modified fore cabin top. Regards Duncan
Duncan, I like the houses you put on your Tiki 30. Very nice. It would certainly allow more space to put a head in instead of one of the forward bunks.
Thanks David. That is exactly what I did - I put a head in the starboard fore cabin. This arrangement works really well, especially for day sails, where not all of the crew are into the 'bucket & chuck it' routine.
I am looking for some advice regarding lashing of the beams on the Tiki 30. We have built our boat strictly to the plans ( well almost)and are at the stage of fitting the beams and would rather lash the beams to the hullsides instead of the webbing method shown in the plans. I have tried contacting Hanneke and James for advice but have had no reply. Is there a design to follow or do we make it up as we go until it looks right? The beam pads and hull reinforcing are constructed as per plans. Any advice from those who have attached their beams with the lashing method would be a great help. Rob.
Concerning the lashings on my Tiki30, I take this decision after to have read a report telling a Tiki30 have broken a lashing fixation in hard sea. As at this time I have already begun my Tiki46, I put the same system to PHA. It's evident that fixing the lashing outside, along the hull sides is stronger than to fix them over the deck.. After a few sailing in bad weather it's necessary to tighten again the lashings and after I don't need to tighten them. Don't forget to extend slightly the beam length if you don't yet build them. As when I take this decision the original inside reinforcement was already made (it's not easy to make these triangular reinforcement) , I only added a piece of hard wood bolted threw the hull and the stringer and glued a piece of plywood + glass above it. In fact in viewing my blog http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profiles/blogs/building-of-the-tiki... it should be better to extend this piece of plywood until the deck stringer.
If you look at one of my pictures you can see the places of 5 bolts (of 6mm) in the center and one screw on each side of the lashing passages.
Thanks for your advice and pictures. I think we will go with a similar system on our boat. It looks relatively easy to tension and you have tested it well, especially with the Atlantic crossing.Unfortunately our forward and main beams are completed to the length shown on the plans so a bit late to add a few inches .The aft beam still needs trimming to length so can be left slightly longer. I think we can still have the hulls the correct distance apart as the small angle that the lashings will form should'nt be a problem as long as the end caps are very secure.
My apologies for not answering sooner but I have only just found your message tonight. Thanks for the information on the Tiki 30 lashing. Did the alternative lashing method come with your plans or is it a separate publication? I am embarassed to say our plans were purchased in 2003 and we are still building. I have started building lashing points similar to bertrands method but would still like to get a copy of the official Tiki 30 method and maybe combine the two.
Hi all, fairly new in this site, been lurking for a while.
Today I received the design book and study plans for T30 and T38 and I think a couple of things might be missing.
In my T38 study plans a hull building sequence page is included, but no such thing in the T30 study plans. Is this correct? The T30 Study plans has ONE double side page with the materials list, it includes : Mast, Hardwood, Paint, Epoxy and Epoxy consumables. But there is no plywood in the list of materials (in the T38 study plans there is a plywood list). I think they failed to include the plywood page. Am I right? And could someone tell me how much plywood is in the materials list? I need it to estimate material's cost here in Argentina.
All right people. I've just ordered a copy of the Tiki 30 plans. It's my birthday and a present to myself. Now it's a 5 week wait till I get them. Will begin with small parts (no longer than 9 feet) in the apartment I'm renting. By June next year my rent contract will be almost over and will be looking for a building place where I can put a sofa, tv and bed, and go live there while building the boat.
I'd like to ask other members. In your "Wharram Building Plans Tiki 30" booklet, do you all have page #33 titled "Tiki 30 Alternative Crossbeam Lashings"? Did you pay extra for this page?
Parabéns...Do you know minicatas group in Uruguay / Argentina? He can help you in your build, Luiz Ning and your friends is wharram specialize. Welcome to Wharram Community in South America.
Sheet number seven and my plans shows the lower side panels Cut out of 6 mm plywood. But then I assume it's the same cockpit side panel is showing cut out of 9 mm on sheet number five box 13th. Is the cockpit construction Tiki 30. Does anybody have a comment on which way to go
Bertrand FERCOT
Our cat PHA has been launched in December 2004 . During six months we sailed in Martinique and towards the north and south islands to test she, especially the rig : a twin Swing wing rig with a free mast on each hull.
In June 2005 we crossed the north Atlantic to join without stop Morgat in France. Since, each year we sail in UK and south Brittany for training and to continue to test the boat and her rig.
With the European rules for amateur builders, we have to wait 5 years before to be allowed to sell she. So we hope to sell she in November 2009 in order to finish and launch her big brother : a Tiki46.
Oct 14, 2008
Budget Boater
I like very much this dreaming boat, specially the PHA solutions and its way.
5 years ago I had worked on building a T30. So, I know very well this design; And now I'm thinking to extend this basic design to 33/35 feet, with 8-9mm ply skin, and a bigger deck pod to allow to get the galley at social center of the boat. But I'm not yet sure about this becouse what we need is not a bigger boat but more carrying capacity.
We planning sail from Brazil to Caribbbean and then to Panama channel and cross Pacific.
Please, Bertrand and others friends, what do you think about this idea and about the loading capacity of Tiki 30 for live aboard 3/4 people?
If we carry the boat 1 1/2 ton of goods it will imerse her knuckle?
Many thanks for your attention.
Feb 25, 2009
Budget Boater
Just do it the easy way and build a Tiki 38. I will be far more comfortable and can carry far more weight. Lightly loaded, it will be fast. Everything you asked for in a stretched Tiki 30 already exists in the Tiki 38
Feb 25, 2009
boatsmith
Feb 25, 2009
boatsmith
Feb 25, 2009
Bertrand FERCOT
Happily the double end shape of the Wharram cats accept to be overloaded without to reduce her speed and seaworthy. When we left the Martinique to cross the Atlantic, PHA was overloaded and we had to close the wind during the first days among crossed waves from NE and SE. Sometimes some waves touched the central cabin bottom..We were 2 adults but I think fwith 4 peoples it will be difficult to take all the necessary to sail offshore during one month.
On the plans Wharram announces an empty weight boat which is in fact only the weight of all the wood + glass + epoxy.. In the marine an empty boat is a boat ready to sail with all the gears, rig, sails, engine, anchor, chain etc. without the crew + food + water + petrol and its very different!!! So in fact the real loading capacity of the Tiki30 in not 1 Ton but only the half. Happily she can accept to be overloaded.
I think for you, to build a Tiki38 would be the easiest and quickest way with a central cabin in the center. So you'll have more room and more intimacy for 4 peoples with a correct loading capacity for long cruises. Your plan to stretch a Tiki30 design, it is not so easy and by experience I know it's faster to follow exactly a plan than to elaborate your own plans.
Bertrand
Feb 25, 2009
Polinesio - Tarcisio Silva
I'm glad by your answers. However no one tell about if overload with 1 1/2 ton T30 immerse her knuckle in water. This maybe will change her 1:12 LWL/beam each hull.
I know that Tiki 38' is a better way to sail round the world. But not to build, no one who had builded this boat with his hands get finished at expected work, time and money. Time is not a big problem, but money is so hard to get on third world country.
Design/drawing is not a problem for me. I'm fine artist from university and when young I had work for achitects.
So,I consider the comment from David about still 6mm ply skin and low profile to try a 33' version, adding just one secondary crossbeam (into half hull) on bulkhead 5 to take and distribute the pod/cockpit load... Let us see how it work!
And if Hanneke draw it, or some thing so, I think she will complete the lacun from 30 to 38 feet. As T31' as James says is more a workboat.
The comments from Bertrand about his voyage on PHA and the ability of Wharrams to take overload without problems confirm my 2000NM offshore (5-36 miles from coast) experience on my T21'. And clear the loading capacity given by Wharram plans.
By now thank you very much. I wish to hear from you again and to continue our discussion.
Best winds,
Tarcisio.
Feb 26, 2009
Robert Sheridan
Good things:
The outboard well is wider than what we had previously and we have found that being able to turn the engine more has dramatically reduced our turning circle.
Winches much better placed for single handing.
Protection for helm when sailing in bad weather
Putting navigation stuff in pod removes the worry of water landing on the chart table in the hull during bad weather (this was a big problem for us when we first got the boat) and it is more to hand.
Comfortable covered shared sitting space for more than 2 people in poor weather (we are in the UK).
Easier to design a deck tent for harbour use.
Bad things:
The outboard well is about 2" too low for our long shaft yamaha.
Waves catch on the engine and the back of the pod and deposit themselves in the cockpit, we reduced this with a cloth under the outboard when sailing and will fit a outboard well box this winter.
Less party space.
Cockpit gets cramped with more than 2 people in it - if you regularly sail with more you might want to consider making the pod a bit shorter.
You lose the safe sail handling area of the open cockpit, but it did not pose any real problems in the worst weather we encountered (F5-7 in the North Sea).
Will need a new tabernacle arrangement to allow us to raise and lower the mast ourselves as it is currently hinged at the aft end.
Sep 5, 2009
Jordan Balbresky
Oct 21, 2009
boatsmith
Oct 21, 2009
Jordan Balbresky
Oct 23, 2009
SChapin
I have had no milky problems, but can mix only small batches... which works out very well to keep the heat down, the build up moving forward and less waste. I dont know but wonder if a slow hardener would be more prone to the emulsive milky thing in our -similar- climates.
Oct 24, 2009
boatsmith
Oct 24, 2009
Jordan Balbresky
Oct 24, 2009
boatsmith
The short answer is it will cost more and take longer than you think, just ask my wife!!
Oct 24, 2009
Budget Boater
Oct 25, 2009
Zee Nagual
Jun 2, 2011
Polinesio - Tarcisio Silva
Yes Zee,
True, you are on the right place! Wellcome.
Cheers,
Tarcisio.
Polinesio Catamarans
www.polinesio.net
Jun 2, 2011
Justin Haines
Is it feasible on the T30 to move the rear beam further aft so tha the cabin can be pushed back so that that you can have 4 double berths. My thinking is to increase the accommodation for a family boat for tropical holiday cruising. Most of the day will be spent on deck under the bimini which needs to have roll up sides for bad weather. Any comments.
Jul 23, 2011
Polinesio - Tarcisio Silva
Hi Justin,
The "double" bunks on Tiki 30' have only 0,95 m width. If you stretch the cabin backward to get another berth, this will very narrow for a couple, even at honey moon. (smile!)
I think the better way to increase accomodation is to build a deck tent. This option will provide very big protected space when anchored, without wind or rain inside. You can see mine at www.veleiro.net/polinesio.
Cheers,
Tarcisio.
Polinesio Catamarans
www.polinesio.net
www.veleiro.net/polinesio
Jul 23, 2011
Duncan Clausen
Hi Justin,
I added a coach roof to the fore cabin (see my photos), and thus created a more usable single bunk. I would not move the rear beam aft, but you could make a cutout in bulkhead #6 as shown as an option for bulkhead #3. This is how JWD creates an spare bunk in the T26. These bunks are to narrow to really be called double bunks though.
I hope that this helps.
Cheers Duncan
Jul 24, 2011
Justin Haines
Jul 24, 2011
Duncan Clausen
Hi Justin, I sold my T30 in South Africa, and now I am living in New Zealand. The decision to build a T26 was an accidental one, in that I was able to buy an unused set of T26 plans cheap. Though all said, I have just returned from SA and had discussions with the owner of 'Inkosinati' and I might ship her to NZ and refurbish her - topsides need to be repainted etc. she has been in the water for 8 years now. I will probably still build the T26 as it will be easier to trailer. Regarding the berth width, if one raises the roof slightly one can use a thick mattress and if it is contoured to fit the hulls you can gain 50mm or so. I curve the roof line to compliment the sheer and carried the line through in to my modified fore cabin top. Regards Duncan
Jul 24, 2011
boatsmith
Jul 24, 2011
Duncan Clausen
Jul 24, 2011
Rob and Beth Boase
I am looking for some advice regarding lashing of the beams on the Tiki 30. We have built our boat strictly to the plans ( well almost)and are at the stage of fitting the beams and would rather lash the beams to the hullsides instead of the webbing method shown in the plans. I have tried contacting Hanneke and James for advice but have had no reply. Is there a design to follow or do we make it up as we go until it looks right? The beam pads and hull reinforcing are constructed as per plans. Any advice from those who have attached their beams with the lashing method would be a great help. Rob.
I
Mar 12, 2012
Bertrand FERCOT
Hello Rob and Beth
Concerning the lashings on my Tiki30, I take this decision after to have read a report telling a Tiki30 have broken a lashing fixation in hard sea.
As at this time I have already begun my Tiki46, I put the same system to PHA. It's evident that fixing the lashing outside, along the hull sides is stronger than to fix them over the deck.. After a few sailing in bad weather it's necessary to tighten again the lashings and after I don't need to tighten them. Don't forget to extend slightly the beam length if you don't yet build them.
As when I take this decision the original inside reinforcement was already made (it's not easy to make these triangular reinforcement) , I only added a piece of hard wood bolted threw the hull and the stringer and glued a piece of plywood + glass above it. In fact in viewing my blog http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profiles/blogs/building-of-the-tiki... it should be better to extend this piece of plywood until the deck stringer.
If you look at one of my pictures you can see the places of 5 bolts (of 6mm) in the center and one screw on each side of the lashing passages.
I put 6 turns of 8mm pre-stretched rope.
Bertrand
Mar 12, 2012
Rob and Beth Boase
Hi Bertrand,
Thanks for your advice and pictures. I think we will go with a similar system on our boat. It looks relatively easy to tension and you have tested it well, especially with the Atlantic crossing.Unfortunately our forward and main beams are completed to the length shown on the plans so a bit late to add a few inches .The aft beam still needs trimming to length so can be left slightly longer. I think we can still have the hulls the correct distance apart as the small angle that the lashings will form should'nt be a problem as long as the end caps are very secure.
Many thanks
Rob.
Mar 12, 2012
Rogerio Martin
Rob, in building book, in finishs pages, have a draw of TIKI 30 alternate lashings, like a Tiki 26, Bertrand do like Tiki 38.
Jul 3, 2012
Rob and Beth Boase
Hi Rogerio,
My apologies for not answering sooner but I have only just found your message tonight. Thanks for the information on the Tiki 30 lashing. Did the alternative lashing method come with your plans or is it a separate publication? I am embarassed to say our plans were purchased in 2003 and we are still building. I have started building lashing points similar to bertrands method but would still like to get a copy of the official Tiki 30 method and maybe combine the two.
Regards,
Rob
Jul 11, 2012
Rogerio Martin
No problem, I will use web method Like Kavenga
Jul 11, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
Hi all, fairly new in this site, been lurking for a while.
Today I received the design book and study plans for T30 and T38 and I think a couple of things might be missing.
In my T38 study plans a hull building sequence page is included, but no such thing in the T30 study plans. Is this correct?
The T30 Study plans has ONE double side page with the materials list, it includes : Mast, Hardwood, Paint, Epoxy and Epoxy consumables. But there is no plywood in the list of materials (in the T38 study plans there is a plywood list). I think they failed to include the plywood page. Am I right?
And could someone tell me how much plywood is in the materials list? I need it to estimate material's cost here in Argentina.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ricardo.
Jul 31, 2012
Rogerio Martin
Olá Ricardo.
In top of the same page of timber material list,
Aug 1, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
Olá Rogerio,
Maybe I'm missing a page, I don't have it. I'll ask Wharram.
But your info is very useful, muito obrigado.
Aug 1, 2012
Rogerio Martin
This T30 is the this site owner (Budget Boater). He is building one T 38.
Aug 2, 2012
Rogerio Martin
Sorry matd I don't Know, I only join the facts.
Aug 2, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
All right people. I've just ordered a copy of the Tiki 30 plans. It's my birthday and a present to myself.
Now it's a 5 week wait till I get them. Will begin with small parts (no longer than 9 feet) in the apartment I'm renting. By June next year my rent contract will be almost over and will be looking for a building place where I can put a sofa, tv and bed, and go live there while building the boat.
Aug 12, 2012
Rogerio Martin
Congratulations...TikiRio is #213
Choice one place where you can assembly all boat, is much better then small place. Do a difference in build, better align, better finish.
Good lucky and force.
Aug 12, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
Thanks Rogerio, I'll get the biggest place I can afford. We'll see what's the lucky number of my Tiki. Haven't thought of a name yet.
Aug 12, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
Got my Tiki 30 plans tonight! I'm #226!
Very happy!
I'd like to ask other members. In your "Wharram Building Plans Tiki 30" booklet, do you all have page #33 titled "Tiki 30 Alternative Crossbeam Lashings"? Did you pay extra for this page?
TIA
Aug 30, 2012
Rogerio Martin
Parabéns...Do you know minicatas group in Uruguay / Argentina? He can help you in your build, Luiz Ning and your friends is wharram specialize. Welcome to Wharram Community in South America.
Aug 31, 2012
Ricardo Aráoz
Thanks a log Rogerio, I'll contact them. Now, about the alternative lashing plans, did you pay extra for them? Or where they included in your plans?
Aug 31, 2012
Rogerio Martin
is include...
Sep 1, 2012
john james
Sheet number seven and my plans shows the lower side panels Cut out of 6 mm plywood. But then I assume it's the same cockpit side panel is showing cut out of 9 mm on sheet number five box 13th. Is the cockpit construction Tiki 30. Does anybody have a comment on which way to go
Oct 24, 2014
Rogerio Martin
I do my floor with 6mm + 20mm poliuretane + 6mm and 2x4cm timbers structure.
Oct 29, 2014