Wharram Builders and Friends2024-03-29T06:08:36Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulandersonhttps://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1957118832?profile=RESIZE_48X48&width=48&height=48&crop=1%3A1https://wharrambuilders.ning.com/group/tiki26/forum/topic/listForContributor?groupUrl=tiki26&user=0jlolzzb2f3qc&feed=yes&xn_auth=noLooking for a Tiki 26tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2023-06-07:2195841:Topic:2992742023-06-07T15:56:52.004Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>I am looking for a Tiki 26 or similar - for living aboard and sailing in Scandinavia and beyond. Preferably in northern Europe, mediterranean or also possible on the other side of the world. My budget is around 6000 €. I would be happy to hear from you if you know one!</p>
<p>I am looking for a Tiki 26 or similar - for living aboard and sailing in Scandinavia and beyond. Preferably in northern Europe, mediterranean or also possible on the other side of the world. My budget is around 6000 €. I would be happy to hear from you if you know one!</p> New Long Windows For Stock Tiki26tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2022-11-05:2195841:Topic:2954202022-11-05T22:45:36.039Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>My Tiki 26 stock design windows are badly crazed, leak and some have cracks so I intend to replace them during the current refit. I quite like the look of the GRP 26s/8m with the single long sleek window on each hull but I'm not sure if my method of replicating that is the right way or could be improved. </p>
<p></p>
<p>This is what I think I will do. Assume at this point all old windows are removed, frames cleaned/repaired and the area inside and out is ready for fitting and new window…</p>
<p>My Tiki 26 stock design windows are badly crazed, leak and some have cracks so I intend to replace them during the current refit. I quite like the look of the GRP 26s/8m with the single long sleek window on each hull but I'm not sure if my method of replicating that is the right way or could be improved. </p>
<p></p>
<p>This is what I think I will do. Assume at this point all old windows are removed, frames cleaned/repaired and the area inside and out is ready for fitting and new window material cut. I'll use the previous method of black mastic for sealing with a 5mm gap as this has not failed.</p>
<p></p>
<ul>
<li>Reuse existing holes</li>
<li>Drill new holes, similar spacing, along the non window region between the original window cutouts, top and bottom.</li>
<li>Paint the area between the original windows black (I'll be using tinted window material)</li>
<li>Fit the new single window ensuring the mastic edge line is continued across the "gap" full length.</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<p>I'm aware of the need to ensure the soon to be covered area of cabin side will need to be in top notch condition to avoid degradation.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Obviously this is not an exhaustive list of steps but I hope will help describe what I'm doing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>So, will this work? Is there a better way? Anyone done this before?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks heaps.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Tiki26 WAYAN Second Transatlantictag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2021-05-28:2195841:Topic:2880012021-05-28T02:12:08.325Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>Hello Tiki26 people.</p>
<p>For those that are interested or have viewed the YouTube videos of WAYAN in the Mediterranean and first transatlantic to Brazil in 2020 (right as covid hit!). He made his way safely up the Brazilian coast over the course of 2020/21 to the Caribbean where he has been cruising for several months now.</p>
<p>I am in email contact with the skipper and he advises me today (28May) he will depart Nassau hopefully by the end of May and head back to the Mediterranean…</p>
<p>Hello Tiki26 people.</p>
<p>For those that are interested or have viewed the YouTube videos of WAYAN in the Mediterranean and first transatlantic to Brazil in 2020 (right as covid hit!). He made his way safely up the Brazilian coast over the course of 2020/21 to the Caribbean where he has been cruising for several months now.</p>
<p>I am in email contact with the skipper and he advises me today (28May) he will depart Nassau hopefully by the end of May and head back to the Mediterranean (Azores).</p>
<p>I hope he is taking lots of video!</p>
<p>Very capable little budget cruisers these Tiki26's and WAYAN's adventures show, that in the right hands, with a well built boat, big things can be achieved.</p>
<p>Search WAYAN on YouTube </p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p></p> Epoxy Materials Listtag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2021-03-10:2195841:Topic:2874292021-03-10T14:05:14.985Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>Anyone worked through the list? I’m trying to price out the project but few of the part numbers match current West System price list and the “pack size” in kg is wicked confusing. Are Microspheres (no longer sold by West) the same as Microlight? Any help out there?</p>
<p>Anyone worked through the list? I’m trying to price out the project but few of the part numbers match current West System price list and the “pack size” in kg is wicked confusing. Are Microspheres (no longer sold by West) the same as Microlight? Any help out there?</p> Locating pads for beamstag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2021-02-19:2195841:Topic:2779272021-02-19T14:57:24.276Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>I have to rebuild my pads. I'd like to build them the same way as on the Tiki 21, pads and cheeks.</p>
<p>The difference between the T21 and the T26 is that on the 26 the beams are also locked fore and aft on the outboard sides. On the 21 the beams are locked fore and aft <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>only</strong></span> on the inboard sides of the beams.</p>
<p>Does someone knows the reason? There is somewhere on the forum the picture of a cracked beam socket on a 21.…</p>
<p>I have to rebuild my pads. I'd like to build them the same way as on the Tiki 21, pads and cheeks.</p>
<p>The difference between the T21 and the T26 is that on the 26 the beams are also locked fore and aft on the outboard sides. On the 21 the beams are locked fore and aft <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>only</strong></span> on the inboard sides of the beams.</p>
<p>Does someone knows the reason? There is somewhere on the forum the picture of a cracked beam socket on a 21. Here it is:</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8575088289?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8575088289?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a>It shows a fore and aft locking cheek that does not seem to be part of the plan. I am wondering if that could be the reason why the beam cracked the cheek and the pad.</p>
<p>Any comments? Thanks, Thierry</p>
<p></p> Tiki 26 named TIKKA: Who knows more about the history of the boat, especially plan number..tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2020-04-06:2195841:Topic:1719932020-04-06T11:52:39.811Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>Hello</p>
<p>I bought the Tiki 26 "TIKKA" recently. You'll find my boat on the Tiki 26 page @ Wharram.com... </p>
<p></p>
<p>I am looking for the plan number as well as after the plans for this boat.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Can anyone help me?</p>
<p>Hello</p>
<p>I bought the Tiki 26 "TIKKA" recently. You'll find my boat on the Tiki 26 page @ Wharram.com... </p>
<p></p>
<p>I am looking for the plan number as well as after the plans for this boat.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Can anyone help me?</p> Tiki 449 - Navigation Stationtag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2020-03-02:2195841:Topic:1714112020-03-02T02:09:38.157Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979712870?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-center" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979712870?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a></p>
<p>The footwell cover doubles as a navigation table in the starboard hull. To the table's right are two removable panels containing the boat's electrical systems. Three solar charge controllers reside behind the panel the table rests on. A battery monitor is mounted on the panel's face at navel level. This would be difficult to read if it were not…</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979712870?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979712870?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p>The footwell cover doubles as a navigation table in the starboard hull. To the table's right are two removable panels containing the boat's electrical systems. Three solar charge controllers reside behind the panel the table rests on. A battery monitor is mounted on the panel's face at navel level. This would be difficult to read if it were not mounted on an upwardly angled bezel. Varnished wood strips, on the panel's face, hide slots giving ventilation to the charge controllers behind. Above this panel is an outlet providing USB and 12 volts DC as well as a goosenecked lamp. A battery disconnect and fused switch panel are mounted in the second panel completing the major electrical components.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Notice that the shelving meets the hull about three inches below the shear. The thought being that the steeply sloping cabin sides are very restricting on the height of what can be stored on a shelf meeting the hull at the shear. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979915065?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979915065?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p>Wiring raceways are built at the intersections of the hull and bulkheads. Above are the box section raceways leading from the outboard electrical panel to below the bunk level and then up the inboard side to supply the other hull and remaining loads. A raceway on the opposite side of the foreground bulkhead carries leads to the battery mounted below the forward bunk. </p> Tiki 449 - Galleytag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2020-03-02:2195841:Topic:1713732020-03-02T00:27:35.626Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979286373?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-center" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979286373?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a></p>
<p>Here the footwell cover does double duty as a table for the alcohol stove. The table's right end rests on the stove's storage location when latched against the hull. Above and to the left of the stove are the black 12 volt and USB outlets as well as a goosenecked lamp. The white sink and counter with shelving below completes this galley…</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979286373?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979286373?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p>Here the footwell cover does double duty as a table for the alcohol stove. The table's right end rests on the stove's storage location when latched against the hull. Above and to the left of the stove are the black 12 volt and USB outlets as well as a goosenecked lamp. The white sink and counter with shelving below completes this galley tour.</p>
<p></p> Tiki 449 - C-headtag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2020-03-01:2195841:Topic:1713712020-03-01T23:59:12.838Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979089995?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-left" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979089995?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a></p>
<p>The C-head fits nicely in the forward locker compartment. I regret opting for the space sucking elongated seat in this application. A step is in the upper right corner to breakup the 18" distance between the deck and the compartment floor. The easily removable composting toilet covers a hole providing more access to the locker below. It remains…</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979089995?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3979089995?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-left"/></a></p>
<p>The C-head fits nicely in the forward locker compartment. I regret opting for the space sucking elongated seat in this application. A step is in the upper right corner to breakup the 18" distance between the deck and the compartment floor. The easily removable composting toilet covers a hole providing more access to the locker below. It remains to be seen if this open air seating will be a good idea.</p> Paddling or rowing Tiki 26...works or not?tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2019-03-18:2195841:Topic:1660012019-03-18T09:58:00.759Zpaul andersonhttps://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>Hi all, how effective is paddling or rowing for moving a Tiki 26 around? I want to move my Tiki 26 less than 1/2 a mile in sheltered waters and my motor isn't ready yet. The boat is empty, not loaded up so that should help. Any particular method recommended?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Steve</p>
<p>Hi all, how effective is paddling or rowing for moving a Tiki 26 around? I want to move my Tiki 26 less than 1/2 a mile in sheltered waters and my motor isn't ready yet. The boat is empty, not loaded up so that should help. Any particular method recommended?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Steve</p>