A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
We had a go with a dyneema bridle for our Tiki 30 at the suggestion of the rigger as it is hard to make up hard eyes on 6mm wire. The dyneema stretched really badly the first time out, we retightened and it stretched again (to such an extent I had to set up the spinnaker halyard as a forestay) so we are going to go back to wire.
We have since found out that there are forms of dyneema that 'creep' less than others, but it all creeps to some extent. The stuff we had was apparently from Liros and the supplier is getting back to them.
So.. if you are thinking of using modern braids for rigging check their stretch and uv characteristics very carefully before buying and also make sure you are supplied something with a cover to protect against abrasion.
Hello Andy, just thought you might like a look at a utube vid on this take on dyneema deadeyes, it's quite interesting. Not a bad idea for deadeyes perhaps?
Or google title of the video Dyneema - how-to install synthetic standing rigging on a sailboat (Utube)
Today I have been working with Stayloks for non-dyneema areas, little bit of learning curve there. Hacksaw cutting -wire method in wooden template block simple fast easy, dead square and much better than grinder with heat/burrs. 24tpi hacksaw blade- new, chuck it after each wire. Interesting to note for silicone filling if chosen, that only non-acetoxy cure silicone should be used, ie neutral cure only otherwise corrosion may occur. I used a Sikaflex type.
Even though I have a "Cruncher" genuine Record wirecutter around 40" long! What a beast, handy for an emergency but a bit heavy. Burrs over the ends of the wire just a touch.
andy solywoda said:
Here's the thimble I used on my insulated shroud:
I wasn't against using lashings or soft rigging, but after failures I had to retrench. Obviously it is my method that didn't work out. It worked OK until conditions got bad, then they all failed. I'll see how this plastic thimble does. I would need to go on a 35 knot downwind run to duplicate the conditions. It was fun while it lasted.
Yes, the link didn't work and the search on YouTube came up with a lot of videos. Are you referring to the one by Zingaro (with the talented blonde crew)?
After trying your link my computer acted funny and I had to close the browser and do it all over again.
Thanks for the tip,
Hello Andy, sorry about the link, but it is Sailing Zingaro . It just came straight back up now when I googled it though. There seems to be a lot of "talented" crew on these sailing videos!.....Very nice deadeyes actually made with dyneema on that video.
I will be switching to dyneema shortly. Should I do anything to project the forestay from chafing? My headsails are hank-on, and I would rather not cut through a fresh forestay
You may try to make dyneema shackles
In the process of finalizing the choices for standing rigging on a Tiki 38. Man, that heat-treated dyneema is expensive stuff! I can buy 500 feet of 1/4 inch, 316 stainless for less than the cost of 75 feet of 9mm dynex dux. While I appreciate the subtleties of the chemistry and manufacturing complexity, that is quite a difference in price. I have been practicing the required splices and really appreciate the ease of making them as well as the weight savings etc.
But galvanized or stainless stays bring different problems. Assuming self-build and the requirement to be able to make one's own replacements, there are hydraulic or manual tools available to make the swages, but it gets complicated to figure out. The inexpensive, multi-die hydraulic hand swagers use a hexagonal die, designed for round swage fittings, not the ovalized SS swage fittings needed for making regular loops in the wire. A hand press is available for the oval swage fittings but hydraulic seems ideal.
My 'money-no-object' preference would definitely be for dynex dux but using SS wire is 1/2 the price, including plenty of spare wire and the press tool. Anyone here have expertise in swage tools and fittings and has sorted this out?