A Photo & Discussion Forum for Wharram Design Enthusiasts
Just wondering the reason for wanting to remove the pod?
I have a t 38 and find the pod to be fantastic. Gets you out of the wind, keeps you dry, and its a great sheltered space to talk.
My pod has clears all round and this is a real asset. Interested to hear your reasons for change .
2400 x2400 approx. When offshore, you spend all your time in the pod because it is noisy and more uncomfortable in the hulls. So you kind of live up top. I have seen a t 46 with a galley in it and a table that folded into a bed. Pluses and minuses for which ever way you go.
OOps that was a galley (in the pod). Most people set up their boats for where they do the majority of their sailing. So that has to guide you largley. In heavier conditions a pod will offer more protection and i like the bed in the pod but at a certain point, in heavy conditions you want the clear curtains out of the way because they can't stand up to green water. Yes I think it would work on a Tiki
Technically, you can do anything that you want. You could exchange the designed pod out for a wide cockpit with a hard top similar to Bazinga.
On the Tiki 46, your primary consideration with such a modification is the location of the main hatches in the hulls. These align in front of the aft mast. That would mean that a mast would be protruding through your hard top and into your cockpit, and you would be required to engineer a mast case that would also be inside your cockpit.
The current Tiki 46 design incorporates the pod and cockpit across three beams. To have a cockpit similarly large to that of Bazinga, you would be required to transition beam 3 with your cockpit, which I think would be undesirable. Bazinga's cockpit works because of the space between the beams in the central area of the boat on the classic designs, and the absence of an extra mast beam. Boatsmith was also able to keep the large cockpit by installing a fractional sloop rig.
Dog is installing a wide cockpit/hardtop on their Tiki 38. This is allowed because of the location of the main hatches in the hulls and the locations of the masts facilitates such a modification. I am doing the same thing on our Narai MKIV.
To accomplish what you want and not be required to re-engineer too much, either step down to a Tiki 38, or move over to the Classic designs (Tangaroa, Narai, Tehini, Ariki) to get the open cockpit/hardtop concept. I understand and agree with your desire to move from hull to hull under cover.
Storage on top of the cabin tops? Why? I don't think they would interfere, but might be unsightly.
Ou comme cela?
Yes! Thanks for the Gunboat 55 link. That is nearly what I had in mind. Especially the kitchen up. See how the stove is on top of the cabin? I like the idea of keeping all of the propane between hulls.
I want to raise the cabins so that the toddler won't jump off the sides quite so easy and maybe provide a little more weather protection. Building and blending storage on top would be easier than cutting off the roof and raising it. Storage for little things like spare rope, canned food, books, snorkels, screwdriver, that lost sock, etc...
How would one install glass sides on a hulls that flex? Plastic windows, but they will be scratched very quickly. Perhaps a flexible gap between the windows and hulls? But, that wouldn't account for any twist...
The hulls do not flex. The hulls can "rock" in relationship to the crossbeams.
There are solutions: Monocoque - glass and bolt the beams into the hulls to eliminate the potential for rocking. If you build bridge deck sides with windows in them, you would gap the windows in the space and fill with a flexible sealant. Also, the closer your bridge deck sides align with the centerline of the hulls, the less the "rocking" will have any effect on your sides.
The bigger issue with a solid bridge deck top/sides on a non-monocoque catamaran is the effect of the front/aft of the bridge deck walls as they interacts with the sides walls of the bridge deck when/if the hulls rock in a seaway.