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I'm fitting a rear tramp to my Tiki 21. I want to maximise the available space. I've tested a fibreglass windsurfer mast as a support pole. It only deflects about 25cm with 80kg point load in the middle of the span. It's only 52mm OD, excellent!

The question is how big to make the tramp?

How far should it go back. I've seen few short ones and some longer, but what are the pro's and con's? Who has experience here who can provide some useful input?

Ian

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A back net with rope seems like a good idea. Now I want that too. Another little project for spring...

Does anyone have the same for the front? I guess the forestay would be in the way a bit, but it would probably work.

/Kristian.

Hi Ian,

I get that netting from Sailrite. It is inexpensive and seems pretty tough (about $50 for a tramp that size). It won't be as strong as Kim's dyneema, but seems strong enough for the job. Also on the Tiki 21 you won't be spending much time on the rear tramp - more throwing stuff there, and preventing you from falling in.

Roger

Ian Bamsey said:

Thanks Roger for your input. It's tricky to make these design decisions without real experience. I'm thinking more about a rope now.

One problem I have is finding a good material in the UK. The best I can find is here. Your tramp is more a net that will deform in both directions. I'm concerned that with the mesh I have available, it will fold when stepped on. 

If anyone knows better sources of material, let me know.

(Thanks Jay for the pictures)

Ian,

 

Regarding the bridle, my Tiki 21 (no longer in my ownership) had 2 cleats inboard fixed to the front beam blocks. I had a bridle permanently on that which I used when tying up on my mooring. Never had an issue with it. I've attached a photo.

We have put netting on the front of our tiki 30 and I also put it on my Hinemoa.  We used a netting beam between the bows, fitted the netting without the forestay bridle attached and tensioned it up.  Once the netting was tensioned up we worked out where the bridle needed to go through the netting, wove a bit of control line through netting round the bridle on each side leaving room to allow for netting sagging as you walk on it.  We then put a whipping round the control line for added security and cut out the netting and fitted the bridle.  We did something similar to allow the mooring lines to pass under the netting from our cleats and for the anchor.  Pic below before we added the cut outs for the mooring lines and for lowering the anchor.  the cutout for lowering the anchor has a flap we can put over it to make it secure at sea.



Kristian Paulsson said:

A back net with rope seems like a good idea. Now I want that too. Another little project for spring...

Does anyone have the same for the front? I guess the forestay would be in the way a bit, but it would probably work.

/Kristian.

Carl I see Tiki Puru on the market again recently. 

Do you have any plans from the trailer design; it looks good. 



Carl said:

Nice tramp. Is that an aluminium piece you used for the front cross beam



Robert Sheridan said:

We have put netting on the front of our tiki 30 and I also put it on my Hinemoa.  We used a netting beam between the bows, fitted the netting without the forestay bridle attached and tensioned it up.  Once the netting was tensioned up we worked out where the bridle needed to go through the netting, wove a bit of control line through netting round the bridle on each side leaving room to allow for netting sagging as you walk on it.  We then put a whipping round the control line for added security and cut out the netting and fitted the bridle.  We did something similar to allow the mooring lines to pass under the netting from our cleats and for the anchor.  Pic below before we added the cut outs for the mooring lines and for lowering the anchor.  the cutout for lowering the anchor has a flap we can put over it to make it secure at sea.



Kristian Paulsson said:

A back net with rope seems like a good idea. Now I want that too. Another little project for spring...

Does anyone have the same for the front? I guess the forestay would be in the way a bit, but it would probably work.

/Kristian.

HI Jay,

Yes I saw that, and I have felt the temptation to buy her back! I don't have plans for the trailer, but it is very similar to the design in the Tiki 21 plans, except that it has the "outriggers" which fold out. Great idea!

Whoever buys Tiki Puru will get a good boat that sails fantastically.

Carl

Jay Bennett said:

Carl I see Tiki Puru on the market again recently. 

Do you have any plans from the trailer design; it looks good. 



Carl said:

Carl

I've seen your old pictures of this boat. Was that a removable plate in front of the engine? I'm working a new platform that places a Honda 5 somewhat lower than a standard design. It means it comes forward when the engine is raised. This looks like the problem you may have encountered?

Let me know if you have any input on this.

Thanks in advance.

Ian

In regards to the netting beam... in my experience a rope is great and simple and works well as a boarding ramp as others have stated. However I was still considering a beam. I've found that when standing on the rear tramp or lifting myself out of the water that I noticed the hulls being pulled together by the rope and my weight (200lbs too many cookies). A beam gives you more deck space and strengthens the structure of the boat. I found that in deciding how far back to go It came down to the size of the beam and whether or not it would interfere with the tillers and if i used Tramp then I would visually give up the lines of the boat back there as seen from on deck. My favorite so far was found on a Aussie T21 I found watching youtube videos I contacted the owner and asked for pics and received many. 

That's a useful post Brandon.

One thing the I'm planning for the rear tramp is to leave a convenient hole/gap where my outboard prop lines up when raised. I've caught lines and bits of rubbish with the motor before. I want to be able to clear it without needing to go for a swim.

Hi Ian,

Yes, a section of the deck in front of the motor was removable, meaning the motor could tilt forward (and clear of the water). I found though that the only time it served its purpose, was when motoring - even then you wanted it out the way for when the wind picked up and the motor could be tilted. What could've worked too is if it had been hinged so that it would've been a simple matter of "opening" or "closing" the section depending on the motor.

Cheers
 
Ian Bamsey said:

Carl

I've seen your old pictures of this boat. Was that a removable plate in front of the engine? I'm working a new platform that places a Honda 5 somewhat lower than a standard design. It means it comes forward when the engine is raised. This looks like the problem you may have encountered?

Let me know if you have any input on this.

Thanks in advance.

Ian

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