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Hi,
I'm restoring Tiki #355 from a pretty desperate state into a thing of elegance and beauty - hopefully.


When I got the boat, I didn't notice that the blocks which position the mast beam were out of alignment, I only realised when I took the beam off to rebuild it, and after reading the plans, found that this beam should be hard up against the bulkhead.


On my boat, the starboard side, outboard block/pad is 7cm high and 3cm away from the cabin bulkhead, and on the port hull, the pad is 4cm high and against the bulkhead - so as far as I can tell the boat is longitudinally twisted...could that be right?


Is it as simple as getting the hulls square in relation to each other as per the plan, then just re-making the supporting blocks?


If anyone has any thoughts on this, or can advise the best solution to sort it out, I'd really appreciate it.
I've attached a couple of photos for clarity.


Thanks for any advice.

PS I have a recently started Facebook page for Tiki designs, and my work on this boat if you're interested:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/470215363333282/

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It could be that the mistake is in the construcion of the hulls, so that one hull is 1cm higher and the cabin is 3cm shorter than the other, and the height and position of the pad where modified to compensate this difference. I suppose that a careful measurement of each hull, together with comparing one hull in parallel to the other, will help to clarify what is really hapenning. Perhaps comparing the height is easier than getting a measure of each hull, which is not easy because of the V hull.

Because the construction is organic, it is quite possible, if fact highly likely that the hulls/decks are different.

The problem is finding an equal reference point on each hull from which to measure. Once you establish a matching pair of horizontal and vertical measuring points, then you can make a determination.

Remember: any bulkhead may not be square in up to three planes - it could be tilted fore/aft, and/or twisted horizontally, and/or rocked port or starboard. It is a meticulous job to find a common reference point between two hulls.

It is NOT uncommon for any beam to be more forward/aft on one hull than on the other. However, 3cm would seem to be at the high end of misalignment on a 26.

I'm wondering how helpful FB pages for Wharrams are? This site is an amazing resource and great community of enthusiasts. The FB pages are spreading content out and dilute their value. It seems a shame to accede to FB for all online communities?

I don't use Facebook, nor do I allow members to sign-up/sign-in with Facebook. I have disabled all links to Facebook for this site and have disallowed any Facebook integration. So anything being posted on Facebook for WharramBuilders is a manual operation done by individual members, over which I have no control.

Ian Bamsey said:

I'm wondering how helpful FB pages for Wharrams are? This site is an amazing resource and great community of enthusiasts. The FB pages are spreading content out and dilute their value. It seems a shame to accede to FB for all online communities?

I'm no great fan of FB either, I just started that page before I found this group when I was hoping to find people with similar boats to share ideas, apart from my page (10 members) and the office Wharram page, I think there's hardly anything Wharram related on FB.

Budget Boater said:

I don't use Facebook, nor do I allow members to sign-up/sign-in with Facebook. I have disabled all links to Facebook for this site and have disallowed any Facebook integration. So anything being posted on Facebook for WharramBuilders is a manual operation done by individual members, over which I have no control.

Ian Bamsey said:

I'm wondering how helpful FB pages for Wharrams are? This site is an amazing resource and great community of enthusiasts. The FB pages are spreading content out and dilute their value. It seems a shame to accede to FB for all online communities?

Thanks for the quick feedback on this question.

The overall woodwork/craftsmanship on the whole boat is 'functional' rather than perfectionist. Based on the general level of woodwork, I think the difference in the pad positions is due to a building inaccuracy.

Worse case scenario is that I build out the bulkhead a few cm so that the beam lies hard up against it as it should do.

I understand that this forms a strong point in preventing moving or twisiting of the hulls.

Like they say, 'Measure twice, cut once' :)

That only works in theory, especially with amateurs.

"I cut it twice and it was still too short!"



Shoestring said:


Like they say, 'Measure twice, cut once' :)

The Wharram page in FB is available for no members of FB, perhaps you could do the same so we can see your page. I don't like FB either...

Shoestring said:

I'm no great fan of FB either, I just started that page before I found this group when I was hoping to find people with similar boats to share ideas, apart from my page (10 members) and the office Wharram page, I think there's hardly anything Wharram related on FB.

Budget Boater said:

I don't use Facebook, nor do I allow members to sign-up/sign-in with Facebook. I have disabled all links to Facebook for this site and have disallowed any Facebook integration. So anything being posted on Facebook for WharramBuilders is a manual operation done by individual members, over which I have no control.

Ian Bamsey said:

I'm wondering how helpful FB pages for Wharrams are? This site is an amazing resource and great community of enthusiasts. The FB pages are spreading content out and dilute their value. It seems a shame to accede to FB for all online communities?

I had this problem and I just glued pcs. Of hardwood to the back of the beam.

Hi, That's interesting, I might just do the same. Do you know what caused it on the boat you had?

patrick lennon said:

I had this problem and I just glued pcs. Of hardwood to the back of the beam.
The bulkhead was out of alignment when the sides were glued on . The bottom of the bulkhead was correct but top was out by a few cm . You mus clearly mark position when drawing sides otherwise it is very diff to find a reference point latter.

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