changing U Bolt to lashings for forestay bridle

[patrick lennon]

Hi would anyone have the drawings for changing the U Bolt to lashings for forestay bridle? Does there need to be extra wood or epoxy in the stem to carry the load as it appears the lashing hole are drilled further back than the ubolt position. Cheers Pat

[Jerry S]

Patrick.  I felt the mismatched angle of the the U bolts to bridle wire was putting unnecessary strain on the U bolts and they had slightly bent which is not a good sign in stainless steel.  I also wanted to lower the bridle. In the event I just drilled two holes in each bow and used dyneema lashings. Drill using the slightly overdrill-soak with epoxy-drill-soak again tecnique and fair the holes to prevent sharp edges and chaffe.  I can't remember how many turns of dyaneema but it overmatches the breaking strain of the wire bridle.  Next time I am at the boat I will count but its about 4. Its worked well for 7 years. Pictures attached.  Jerry

[Jerry S]

Here are some screenshots I found before starting the job. I did not use stopper knots on the outside of the hull which is potetially risky.

[patrick lennon]

Hi Thanks so much for the pics. Did you go from no stopper knots on the outside to one for each line . Cheers Pat

[Jerry S]

I only mention stopper knots as they are shown on the last screenshot of another boat. The lashing on Lookfar (my Tiki) is a continuous dyneema line knotted at the bridle wire shackle. If you zoom right in on the picture of Lookfar (the one with the umbrella up) you will see how the lashing is made. I don’t see the point of a stopper knot. Dyneema is slightly slippery so I have put a cable tie around the knot to make sure it does not work loose through wave action. I have also noticed by lowering the bridle that when anchoring the anchor warp can touch the dyneema if Lookfar lies at certain angles, so I use a “Y” strop to hold the anchor warp in the centre and prevent chafe.

[patrick lennon]

Thanks Jerry that explains it .