SBW_4513

Comment by Scott Williams on June 6, 2012 at 9:18pm

Testing out the cockpit seating after fitting the seat hinges (rope lashing method).  These seats are shoebox-style hatch lids over raised coamings on the cockpit lockers, so they should stay dry in all but he worst conditions.  Now I have to take them back off for glassing and then get the cockpit faired and painted.  

Comment by paul anderson on June 7, 2012 at 1:35pm

Mate I have done the same more or less,although I have to figure out a way to close the gap between the hulls and cockpit.

Comment by Scott Williams on June 7, 2012 at 1:41pm

Paul, I used a very simple 9mm ply flange.  It's straight on the cockpit side and curved to match the cabin sides on the outboard side.  It rests on a narrow ledge glassed to the cabin sides and the outer edge of the cockpit outside of the coamings for the storage boxes.  The cockpit side of the flange has a piece of 6mm ply glued to it at a right angle, making an L-shape.  Using this vertical piece, I can thru-bolt the flange to the outer coamings in a way that they are covered by the hatches/seats.  This way, the flanges become part of the cockpit and are not physically attached to the cabin sides.  All weight is still carried on the end ledgers resting on the beams.  The hatch lids are hinged off these removably flanges, so that for disassembly you don't have to carry the weight of the lids as part of the cockpit.  If this doesn't make sense, I'll try to post more photos.  

Comment by Jose Alberto Garibaldi on June 7, 2012 at 3:41pm

Scott

 Thanks for the comments and the details. what  you describe is similar to a problem in the TIKI 31. If you could send some photos it might help imagine how to address it. Anyway, nice work on your own boat, and nice photos on your Tiki31. 

Comment by Scott Williams on June 7, 2012 at 5:26pm

I'll try to get some more photos posted soon. There are some on my blog but may not show exactly how the flanges are designed.  

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