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100_2422

The strip planking is done up to the stem heel. This is just to build the male mold on which we will build the foam/glasshulls

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Albums: Ariki 45'

Comment by WaveDancer & Bella on September 4, 2011 at 12:29pm: This looks very interesting indeed!

Comment by Rogerio Martin on September 4, 2011 at 1:02pm: This is a 36' mold?

Comment by boatsmith on September 4, 2011 at 4:49pm: No this will be the mold for the 45'Ariki

Comment by Greg Russell on September 5, 2011 at 9:13am: I built a small sailing dingy this way many years ago. I had about 3 inch spacing between the stringers, put plastic over the plug and screwed the foam to the mold from the inside. After fiberglassing the outside I unscrewed the foam and the whole thing came off the plug and then I fiberglassed the inside. It was 9 feet and weighed about 70 pounds.

Comment by boatsmith on September 5, 2011 at 11:47am: We will fair out this mold and sheath it with glass. Then we will wax it. This will end up as the interior surface of the hull. Itwill be smooth and ready for tabbing in bulkheads, floors, and furniture. We will laminate a layer of 1 1/2 oz CSM, 2 layers of 1208 and then a layer of 5/8" foam. Then we will laminate on 2 layers of 1708 and alayer of 1 1/2 oz CSM for the outer skin. Then we will fair the ouside of the hull and she will be ready for paint. This method allows us to put extra reinforcements on the keels and stem. We also end up with an interior surface that will only require fairng of the tabbing in orderto be ready for a Yacht quality finish. I also prefer Awl Grip to gelcoat as I like to do all of my secondary bonding with epoxy and gelcoat can be problematic over epoxy. We actually use AwlCraft 2000 which is very easy to blend into an existing paint surface. By doing both skins and the foam before she comes off the mold we will have a much more ridgid structure to handle until we get some parts in to stabilize the hull shape.