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We need to fit a beefier aft beam on our Tiki 30 in order to fit the windvane steering system we have on order (a light weight system built in the UK called a Sea Feather). 

To make the attachments to the vane system as well as a walkway easier we are thinking of a smaller version of the cross beams and as I believe if will not be subject to heavy vertical loading was thinking of just putting bullseyes in the inner and outer gunnels to lash it down (it will be shapped at each end to lock on to the stem head under the tillers).

Does this sound OK to you all?


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Replies to This Discussion

Robert, I am thinking about the same problem. I have a Windpilot Pacific Light and need a 4th beam to attach it to. I was thinking to build an "I beam" looking like a capital letter 'H' turned by 90 degrees. I found the box beams to be a lot of work to build and the strength of a box beam is probably not needed here.
'Eskimo' a Tiki 26 which I know here in Korea has a box beam as a 4th beam and it is lashed only on the inboard side. It never had a problem with that.
Thanks for that Ralph. The bloke supplying us suggested a L shaped beam using 2" x 4" timber. We just got the timber and it feels awfully heavy so we are thinking of keeping the 2" x 4" base but using ply for the vertical if it will save a significant amount of weight. We are using clear douglas fir and it seems very stiff without the vertical on it.

We reckoin this is the simplest solution, we toyed with a aluminium beam but it would add complication in terms of getting a wall thickness and dimension that was strong enough withoutthe beam being so big that it would impede the tillers plus there is the problem of how to fix the windvane on to it.
Have you made any progress on your beam and its attachment to the hull? I would love to read some report and see some pics if there is any.
Yes, we have it all fitted and did a successful trial sail. We went for the 2x4 douglas fr with a tapered reinforcing section underneath. We fixed it to the hulls by putting locators on the hull plus an inboard lashing point. We also built a walk way out to the beam using douglas fir forward to supports epoxied in to the cockpit bulkhead and put sections of foam laminate (old center section) on top to form a walk way which is about the width of the outboard well.
There is a photo in the thread on windvanes, I will see if I have any others. It has proven a good solution and easy to use to access the windvane steering and there is no significant flexing even when we were standing on it without the walkway.
I will post some more photos when I can get some.


Robert, do you have a wind vane in aft beam in one Tiki 30 ? I'm curiosus for look one photo. Can you post? You will help me too much.




A photo with neither the wind or water blades in place and the pendulum mechanism swung up parrallel to the aft beam.  I am afraid it is the best I have access to at the moment.  It works well and the walkway makes it easy to get to.  It does not stick out any further than the rudders.  The control lines go up the tillers and hook on to a catch on the tiller bar.  In addition there is a fine adjustment line on the mechanism which is long enough to be manipulated from within the cockpit.




Rogerio - Have some photos, will attach. Don't have any experience as have only just bought boat. Previous owner assures it works well. Vane is a Flemming.

All the best -Darrell

I'm doing a Tiki 30 and am in the beginning, but I bought the  Wharram's windvanne plane   . Has three ways of getting it, but I'll use the tiki 30 crossbeam 4 in T style. I just don't knowif I use one or two trimtabs (the vane control one or two ruders toghether) . Hanneke will say...


Robert Sheridan said:

Uma foto com nem as lâminas do vento ou da água no local eo mecanismo de pêndulo oscilou para cima paralela ao feixe de ré. Eu tenho medo é o melhor que tenho acesso ao momento. Ele funciona bem e faz a passagem mais fácil de chegar. Não ficar fora mais longe do que os lemes. As linhas de controle ir até os perfilhos e gancho para uma captura na barra de leme. Além disso, existe uma linha de ajuste fino sobre o mecanismo que é tempo suficiente para ser manipulado de dentro do cockpit.




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