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What are other sailors using for their lashings?? Double braid ,stayset, dyneema
Or I notice a lot of European boats with webbing clamps??

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I used typical commonly available truck cargo ratchet straps found at Home Depot/Lowes (20,000lb 2" webbing type.) I just cut the hook off and ran it back to itself. BAR TIGHT with no movement was the result.

This place has stainless steel versions, which should work perfectly, and they are quite inexpensive and you don't even need to modify them: http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Stainless-St...

Thanx heaps Budget Boater
Located in oz but will look into here etc
The working loads were only 2200 lbs on the stainless ratchets do you feel that's enough compared to the ones you used at 20,000 lbs???

I use poliester ropes, works ok. 7 loops in 5mm. I lash, after two weeks I lashing again, more strong, and never more put my hand in this ropes. Have 3 years and is ok.

I like Stayset, a double braid polyester for the lashings. I like  5loops 1/4". We use Dyneema for the frapping turns and use soap and levers and a truck to tighten them up. We have to make sure that the lashing strake stand-off blocks are rounded and reinforced on the top corners as when the frapping pulls the lashing in the top corners of the block comes under immense load and will crush if not substantial enough. I like tight lashings!! This photo is of our Ariki 48 and shows the completed lashing.

That was the breaking rating of the webbing, not the ratchet. 2200lbs is the weight of a T30, so I think 4 per beam is more than adequate, since one is capable of lifting the entire boat.

These types of ratchets are common in trucking, so you should be able to find some locally. I did not use the SS types I linked, but typical zinc coated trucker's tie down ratchets. Because they were so cheap, I just kept some spares on board. I figured if the ratchet rusted up, I would just cut it off and install a new one, but they never rusted up like I would have thought. Stick with 2" or wider webbing and ratchets and you should be good to go. Of course, UV resistant webbing is always a plus.



Robert said:

The working loads were only 2200 lbs on the stainless ratchets do you feel that's enough compared to the ones you used at 20,000 lbs???

Do you put the webbing round the beam and hull fixing point just once or a number of times? I find it difficult to keep the rope lashings as tight as I'd like, but I like the additional safety of the rope - a breakage in one piece would not mean immediate failure. It seems with using these truck webbing straps, you rely totally on the integrity of the rachet - of course something that is very strong and should do the job....

I started off with 3/8" stayset line for my T30 lashings and could never get them tight enough. The hulls and beams would "knock" in a seaway. As far as the ratchets breaking or failing, it is unlikely to happen, and even if one did somehow fail, your boat is not going to disassemble itself since two attached beams are all that are required - the third beam is a safety, and you could easily add a new strap/ratchet at sea. I have been using these types of straps for over 20 years and never had a ratchet fail. I have never even had a strap fail. I carry half a dozen in my truck and use them regularly.

Though the stainless steel ones in the link previously posted above have a WLL of 2200lbs (which is more than enough), the ones I used:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/SmartStraps-2-in-x-27-ft-Ratcheting-Tie-Dow...

have a WLL of 3300lbs and a breaking strength of 10,000lbs.

Think of it a different way: These are rated in the US, by the Department of Transportation, to hold down loads on semi-trucks on the highway. The US is country that loves to sue when something goes wrong. The DOT is not going to approve something, and truckers are not going to use something, and stores are not going to sell something for over 20 years that has a failure rate that even approaches 0.01% where the failure of the product could be a risk to lives and property. I believe your fears are misplaced.

I used a single wrap around the beam and beam block. As stated before, I removed the short strap and hook and replaced it with the long strap, cutting off the hook and excess strap with a hot knife. I wrapped the strap around the beam and beam block and back to the ratchet. The ratchet sat on the inclined surface of the beams. I tightened the strap until is was "bar tight," and never had an issue with movement, chafe, or noise.



Andy Best-Dunkley said:

Do you put the webbing round the beam and hull fixing point just once or a number of times? I find it difficult to keep the rope lashings as tight as I'd like, but I like the additional safety of the rope - a breakage in one piece would not mean immediate failure. It seems with using these truck webbing straps, you rely totally on the integrity of the rachet - of course something that is very strong and should do the job....

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