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When putting together my Tiki 21, I found the lashings time consuming and hard work. During the season some have also slackened slightly leading to some slight squeaking.

Today I was reading about Wharram's new Mana 24. Here it says the beams will be secured with webbing. This got me wondering, why could I not use a 25mm (1 inch) stainless ratchet and webbing?

Thoughts and comments would be welcome.

 

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Where did you source the straps? I may add these for trailering as lashing keeps me from a lot of weekend trip opportunities

friendshipsloop . said:

OK, here's a "shared album" on Google Photos. I hope everyone can see the content.  Let me know if I need to post the photos to this forum instead.  They are iPhone photos.  On some, you need to zoom in to see the ratchet strap.  Others are extreme closeups.  As you can see, there is a bit of surface rust showing at the end of the season.  I imagine I need to take them apart and shine them up between seasons.  I also spray some T9 Rust Inhibitor on them (but not often enough).  

Here's the link:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/28pzX7SwAM5OznoC3

Jeff


Peter Baillie said:

Great! Look forward to seeing them..

Many Thanks Jeff. It looks as if you haven't had to make any additional modifications, you've simply run the strap under the lower 'cleat' and although that causes it to bunch up that doesn't appear to have compromised its integrity or had an adverse effect on the timber work of the beam or hull..?

Any issues with the ratchets fouling ropes and sheets underway?

Any info on sourcing the ratchet, its make and size and the strap specs would be most appreciated. 

They may not be as attractive as the lashings, but anything that helps cut down on assembly time is a great help.

Cheers, Peter

Peter, that's right.  No special modifications.  I might add some chafing gear under the ratchet itself as the gear wheel protrudes below the plane of the rest of the ratchet and makes a pair of slight marks in the beam below it.  A piece of rubber, leather, or plastic will take care of that.  In addition, I would like to fashion some kind of "covers" for the ratchets that will protect them from salt spray, look a bit nicer, and protect lines and bodies from hanging up on the ratchets (although that hasn't been an issue this summer).  They certainly shaved at least 2-hours and some bleeding fingers off the launching task!  It's all an effort to get her truly trailerable and able to setup in about 2 hours with 2 people.

Here is the info on the ratchets I used:

CustomTieDowns.com

 

 

Item Name

Quantity

Price

Total

Product #4136, Model:4136-T4
(Sold per Each, 1 Inch Stainless Steel Endless Loop Ratchet Tie-Down, CRW1S-3M Stainless Steel Ratchet With Wide Handle, Endless Loop (no Hooks), Total Strap Length 4 Ft, CW1-T3PE Tan Polyester Tie-down Webbing, Assembled in the USA., Working Load Limit Per Unit = 833 lbs.)

6

$12.89

$77.34

I think there's real merit in this approach. The 12 lashings take the time when assembling the boat. I can see if you're trailering a Tiki 21 you'd be attracted to this approach.

For me (who launches in the spring and stays in until the Autumn) I like the low profile of the lashings. I will stick with these for the time being. It's a shame that there's no low profile over-centre (stainless) buckle to do the job. It should be possible to design something small an neat.

Good luck and keep the reports and ideas coming to this site!

Ian

Just ordered a pair of these "ratchet" covers to test:

Image result for ratchet cover

Hello folks, its slightly off-topic, but I thought I will ask your opinion about how snug the beams should be laying on the beam sockets and pads? Yesterday I took opportunity of nice weather and lined up the hulls for locating those fixing blocks that will go underside beams. I got Itatae nicely lined up, parallel, diagonals equal etc., then positioned beams, aft and center beam fitted like fist in the eye, but fore beam did not arched enough to reach outer pads, leaving almost a inch of open air between both ends of beam undersides and pad tops... Everything else was fine with forebeam -- the compression struts intended to lay on top of hull center line batten, were where they should to be -- on top of center batten... beams sockets and pads on both hull are perfectly lined up compared each other... the arc of the beam seems also correct with no major springback after gluing... I just dont get it...

There is only two possible solution I can think of in the moment:

a) go on and glue beam underside fixing blocks and when lashing up the hull use extensive force to bend the beam in place (would not like that idea, though)

b) glue beam underside fixing blocks and extra blocks to beam underside straight above where the lashing pad lays to compensate the cap between lashing pads and beam underside...

Has anyone experienced similar issue? Any solutions...?

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